Pinch

I've posted this shot of Last Rites Assis cos i wanted keith to see me crushing a pinch. Ok its not General Dissaray but its not bad for me. Resting today.

Another lonely day on the Box.

Wasn't sure whether to climb today as i've had 3 days on. Skin was hurting a bit and my muscles ached so i headed to the orme! Hock, Ian and Chris Davies were in the cave so i did a bit. Kinda did Trigger (had a bit of a power spot if i'm honest) so thats good for HH. After a bit of banter and watching the big guns i exited stage left to the box for another lonely session. Yesterday i did the last move of Last Rites Assis 3 times but was two powered out to get the last hold. Anyway today i crushed first go, think its cos i had no spotter and got scared. Gonna do it from Malteser next, very excited about this link, will be ace, no easy moves!

Vids n Stuff

Here is dyer crushing Silk Cut


Here is Donkey fighting Trev


Have been getting out last few days. Trying the sitter to last rites, today was damp though so tried a proj at Normans wisdom. Have met old timers Paul Craven and John Welford on the orme this week. they did alright crushing RA and john crushed LF.

Your Sunday Sermon - Anyone for a Nosh?

This week i am handing the Sunday sermon over to Reverend Ronnie O Suliivan. Enjoy:

8b

8b is so very hard however it is my belief that most 8a/+ punters have an 8b with their name on it. I always thought mine was In Heaven in the cave til the new beta was found and Pete did it. So since that moment my mind has been wondering about other potential 8b ticks. It has to be long preferably 20 moves and it has to be near home. Well i think i have found a perfect candidate. I think the linkage of Jack The Drunk into Last Rites would constitute an 8b power endurance rock climb and so now this is my long term goal. One thing is for sure, i will need to go up another level to achieve this.
Yesterday i was out with Muley and Monolith. We headed to the Gop where i once again understood the meaning of the word hardcore. This place is just that. Still not close to Push the Button first move. Tried some other projects which were hard and involved shitty holds in a roof with shitty feet. The crag even made the Mule feel weak and he repeated Push the Button!!! Anyway i'm not going back till my finger strength and body tension has increased. We went the Cave where we all did a bit. I tried In Hell again tickled the jug on RA again (frustrating) then later did RA. Went to the box to try the sitter to Last Rites. After working it out i dropped the last move twice- very good!

Ding Dong crushes the fuck out of Directors and keeps going!

Yeah its true, that mild mannered labouring man has crushed Directors. And then he had the audacity to keep on goin up bloody upper cut. This is 8b+ and an outstanding achievement. He said this was his desert island problem and he was right. Watching him on it reminded me of when i saw Zangeryl on Never Ending Story at the magic grades. He even takes the swing on Halfway like a true man should, with consummate ease- incredible.




Yesterday i went to the mountains with Hock Jack and Ian. After watching them in the pit, we went to the Pen where it was too hot n greasy. I was shit too. Hock has just done an 8a variant on Jerry's Problem and has a really sick looking project to the left which will be mega hard if he does it.
Jerrys left:

FA Bonanza

Rare day today.Did a new route AND a new problem. Me n the dog went to me old mans crag and i got pumped doing a new 6c called Fathers4Justice, pic below


Then we went the orme. Mule tried Greenheart (he was a bit pumped after toproping fathers4justice). Then we went the box and i tried the project right of last orders, i've tried this a few times before trying the find the beta. The problematic part seemd to be the last move which is centered around a god awful small hold worryingly close to the box. After getting to the last move a few times i roped in the dog to give me a spot and Last Rites 7b+ (ish) was born. I graded it 7b+ cos i don't think a 7b climber could use the crimp and also because its a slightly worrying problem. A man could impale himself on the box and need his last rites read to him. Anyway the sitter will be mega as will the link from Malteser, i'm excited!