October Furnace

What a topsy turvy island this is! It's too hot to climb in late September. I went to the Cave today but it was warm and i had no growl. I sacked it to Pigeon's with Ducko to have a look, it was still a bit wet but my route was dry enough to have a quick look. It's all there but there's not much you can do if its wet or 30 degrees. I've lost a bit of spark this week but it's normal after a sustained psyche period and a big project. Ducko pointed out a nice clean little wall on the way down to Pigeon's. There were two potential problems that i doubt have been climbed before (the hard one defo hasn't). The left hand one was a cool sit start and followed some nice flowstone. I got it ticked when the sequence was worked out. It's worth checking out and is around 7a+. I've christened it October Furnace. The line to the right looks 8a/+ and is one for CJD i reckon when it cools down, come on fatty!
Pic's:




Come on Floppy!:

Dyer flashed The Empire State on The Diamond as a warm up like he does.

The Empire State

Me and Tommy headed down The Diamond today. It was quite warm and still so we were expecting a bit of grease but the chalk was glowing as we approached and it was quite good. The crag's recent upsurge in popularity continues and there were people all over it. Tommy was keen for an old project line he re-equipped back in 2009. Right of Never get Out of The Boat is a amazing yellow streak. The start is a hard boulder sequence up to a long vertical jug and from here is a further 25 metres of amazing pumpy climbing to the top of the crag. Like The Black Pearl it makes for an unbalanced route with the first two bolts taking the grade up 3/4 grades and so the link from the jug to the top was an obvious challenge. The route has a hard sequence above the jug before it turns into a stamina fest. The rock has a rough shell so it's usually ok conditions when everything else is greasy. Tommy spent 6 days on it in 2009 and got involved again last Saturday and was soon on redpoint. Today he got the link first redpoint despite wet holds at the top. I'm glad he didn't drop the end as i doubt he would have got there again. We don't get much practice on 30 metre sport routes round here! He's called it The Empire State and has given it 8a but reckons it could be a tough one. Nice one mate. There are some pics on Mark Reeves blog.
I had another go on The Black Pearl, i still felt tired despite a rest day but had a redpoint and powered out on the top crux sequence. It's flippin sustained and the shake isn't that good as the holds are flat. I had a realisation that i really shouldn't be wasting myself on any more fitness routes this year. I need to make the most of feeling strong not wasting the window of opportunity getting boxed and tiring myself. It was a useful epiphany to have! I need to crush some stuff before mediocrity creeps back in. Jimmy Big Guns did Skip of Fools 8a+, ye! Later i had a look at the thing i bolted on hanging rock on the Orme. After one go i've christened it Hubble's Welsh cousin, its fuckin nails! Oh well, if i ever do Louis Armstrong i'll give it another go. Some nice weather coming up, need some wind to dry Pigeons!

New craglet near Ruthin

Two years ago my old mucker Ryan Mcconnell (aka Spidey) started developing a small roadside crag at Pwll Glass just outside of Ruthin on the A494. The crag yielded a 6a and a 6b on the right and a 7b through the central section which Danny Cattell bagged the first ascent of (name:Apple Crumble). Spidey had his sights set on a harder route on the left hand side. The route was a very nice little boulder problem passing the 3rd/4th clips involving some small crimps, a pocket and a high heel. Spidey tried the route sporadically but struggled with the tenuous bouldery crux, a long slap off the heel. This year he made the breakthrough and latched the move but got spat off the next move. He started getting through the crux more consistently recently but the last moves were still tenuous and hard for the feet and he kept dropping them. However he could tell the redpoint was close and desperate to bring closure to his seige he linked a few days in close succession and got the route ticked yesterday. It is the great thing about redpointing that we all go through the same tribulations on a long term project. The route is called Fraxinus Excelsior and is 7c or 7c+. The 7c's Spidey has done (including the LPT beast I've Been a Bad Bad Boy) have taken him considerably less effort than this route but he concedes that it may just not suit him. Time will tell but it is a very nice little route with a satisfying crux sequence. It's right by Ruthin escarpment which has been re-equipped by Lee Proctor and co so it's quite a handy micro venue. Spidey gets to jet off to Yosemite with his proj in the bag, nice one shag!
Pics:



Lee Proctor on Apple Crumble:


An attempt earlier in the year:

Tigger Cut

Wandered into the cave and saw this beast on Trigger Cut:


I chilled for a bit after the Dyserth exploits then went down the Diamond with Pete. It was greasy on first arrival but it got good. I finished off NGOOTB. I felt good on it but climbed it mainly on strength rather on fitness. I did get a bit back on the shakeout. Without doubt a North Wales classic! Pete tried the start to The Black Pearl, awesome hard boulder problem. I had a bolt to bolt on the new 8a. It is steeper than the other low 8's and is a really good power endurance route. I was tired so didn't have a redpoint. Yesterday i had a meaty sesh in the Cave with the stags. Some more Waiting Game footage:

The Black Pearl

Years ago Dave Redpath stuck some bolts in one of the obvious main lines on The Diamond. The line followed a hanging corner in the middle of the steepness which had plenty of holds but the first couple of metres off the beach to gain the corner was totally desperate. It made sense for someone to climb the route from the first jug as it is such an excellent line and the desperate start was so unbalanced. I remember when i first went to Ceuse this was a common practice on several routes. It seemed silly on those routes as starting from the ground was only usually a grade harder. I recall people hanging on the first bolt of Blanche Fesses 7c at Cascade. The one move off the deck was a v3 dynamic move but all the stamina jug pullers couldn't handle this savage piece of bouldering so they bypassed it. On the Diamond route it was an obvious way forward and Pete Robins did the deed a few days ago at 8a (name The Black Pearl). Now all it needs is a new lower off, maybe an extension and of course the route needs to be climbed from the deck. Hopefully this will go down this season. Its brilliant watching the crag coming to maturity with the obvious new routes getting done and the old routes getting re-equipped.

I was looking in my diary this morning and i noticed a list of 14 new routes that i made back in May that i wanted to complete this year. The Hole Truth was the last one on the list but a few extras have been added. Forgot to post this pic of my lucky belayer:

The Hole Truth

I did my project at Dyserth Waterfall today. I can't believe its 9 months since i first wondered up to this crag with Tony in the search for new rock. I was taken by the steep roofs and the first line i spotted was the roof with the hole on the right. I didn't really spot the potential for the two middle lines as i couldn't see the holds. I cut down some brambles at the top of the crag so i could ab down the line of the hole route. I got down to the lip and where i had been hoping to find some good holds was basically one solitary pinch. I gave up on the route and concentrated on the other lines. The hole was good when you got into it but there were so few options for your feet, i just thought it wouldn't go for me. After i'd completed Meatsville Arizona and Strawberries Man (7c's) i decided to bolt the last two lines even if they were two hard for me someone would do them. The middle line turned into The Madness Reigns which i sandbagged at 7c+. It was one of my best new routes. I had been playing on the hole project and had worked bits of it out. Before my injury in June i had a freak go and managed to get to the lip. It was a freak and when i started trying it again i struggled to get into the hole despite being as strong. It needed drastic action and a crash diet resulted in a breakthrough two days ago. It felt like a different route and i ended up dropping the last hard move. Today i returned with my lucky belayer Norman Clacher (Norm belayed me on the other routes) and did it first redpoint. I felt strangley subdued as i lowered off. I don't know why but the usual excitement when i do something at my limit wasn't there. I just felt pleased and relieved. I've never done a route like this, it is a hard, gnarly, crazy style. The moves you are forced into doing are quite wild for a route. It felt like a weird redpoint because after setting off it was done 40 seconds later. Difficulty wise i can't pinpoint it exactly but i'm guessing it is somewhere between mid to hard 8b. It could be my hardest route, i can't really judge if it's harder than Melanchollie as they're 7 years apart and so different in style. It's 6 easy moves to a 11 move font 7c+ sequence (compared to the recent boulders i've been doing/trying) and then 6b to the top. The name is The Hole Truth (nice one gorgy). I'd love to see some other folk trying it, i'd be intrigued to see what beta people come up with. Anyway to get to the crag follow the river from the top of the falls. Please act sensibly if you visit this crag. It is a popular tourist area and the crag is close to residential properties. You all know the score. I celebrated by climbing two 5's on the left so i could tick the crag.
Pic's by Mike Doyle:




Shit topo for the hard routes:

Pics n Vid

Ducko on G Spotting 7a, Pac Man boulders:

Bogroll comfortiser for toe cam on my hole proj:

Pete on the 2nd Ascent of The Madness Reigns:

Loyal belayer Tommy C:


Jimmy big guns film of the 2nd ascent of Dumpster Diver's. Looks cool, nice to see someone else recording the action!


We need some dry weather drastically, Pigeon's, The Diamond and the cave are all gopping. The Orme was shut today because of rockfall