Training Patxi Style!

Well not quite, i've had a rest day already! Those of you who have seen Progression will know about Patxi's now legendary training regime. 3 months on, 2500 move circuit every day etc... Well most of us would break if we did this but we could undoubtedly do more. I rested yesterday so am training Patxi style until sunday, then rest then hopefully Diamond. Need to up the ante on the circuits front, i've been bouldering a lot too at the mill so i either need to tone this down or have longer sessions. My endurance training takes 3 forms. First i do a hard problem up the board (one that i can usually do when feeling good), then i do a tricky but not desperate downclimb and then try and bust out a 7a. I'll probably have a few burns on this then try my drop off circuits, five problems which get easier, dropping off quickly between goes. Then i get on the 30 board and try and stay on as long as i can with a pretty bad shakeout between circuits, i'm usually goosed at this point! Combine this with some deadhanging and running and you should be getting in decent shape. I've chilled a bit on the eating front because i'm only a bit heavier than i was in the summer, to get as light as i was wouldn't do too much and getting even lighter would be too hard. And besides the main thing i need to work on is fitness.
Obsession has had 2926 views on Vimeo in 7 days. This pleases me, i did show it at Kendal a few years ago but the punts and old duffers didn't really get it. At least now those who can appreciate such things can see it.
Busy time at the Diamond:

Ding Dong Crushes 8c

The Hulk in Rodellar, nice one pal! Seems everyone is crushing 8cs these days! No more diamond until the next tidal window. Yesterday i went down with Heason and Tommy. Ben had a dog up my route, he did the crux moves similar to Pete but managed it without the gnarly matches. It was time to investigate further, the way i was doing the crux was too draining and i knew it, stupid, really stupid! Those guys weren't cutting loose all over the place and although they were doing a few more moves their sequence was much more 'on'. Anyway i worked it out and its defo the way forward, idiot! I got through the new crux sequence but powered out on the horrible flatty again, need to extend that stupid clip! So all good really, still learning a lot and improving on the route. lets see what next week brings....

Old Pics

Here are some old pics from Miles Perkins of me, him and ding dong re-equipping the Brute project on the Diamond. Can't remember what year this was. We did the big abseil and jug, a hard day!




Had a good session yesterday, i managed to get through the crux for the first time, i did a few more moves to the good flat hold but had nothing left, i couldn't move. A bit worrying and perhaps the first true indicator of the difficulty of this line.

Progression

Big Ups latest film trailer. The kings of filming and video production. Keen to see this one:

Onnnnn Redpoint!

Good scene down the old Diamond yesterday, several psyched locals turned up to give Boat People a pounding. It was minty mint, i could tell straight away. I put my clips in and did my warm up routine, then had a bash. Almost held the crux hold, rest and then another bash, got even closer, this time though after i fell i pulled on just after the crux cut loose and went to the top. The all important link was in the bag, i could now start to believe in myself on this route a bit more. Next go i was even closer to getting through the hard bit. Once this happens i could be in (i could also spend weeks falling off the top though so we'll see!). Anyway i don't have months and months so its redpoint time. I feel good on this route, it doesn't stress me (yet) and the climbing flows for me.
Tommy worked the middle moves on his project then set his sights on the nails looking start, he got a sequence and did one of the very hard moves which was cool. The lads were throwing themselves at Boat People. They weren't bothering with the top wall electing to do the 7c version. Jim got it and Jonny R and Choo got close. Pics and vid of the day:

Neil James Inspector Awesome Mawson ticks Cry Freedom!

Yes news just in, also on the 8b+ grapevine Ted did Mecca recently. Jimmy big guns tells me that on his recent trip to Spain with Mcclure, Steve managed to onsight an 8c, bout time! Good work all round!

Obsession!

Back in 2002 when i lived in Sheffield, i met a young lad called Rich Simpson. He was up from Birmingham for the weekend with his climbing buddy Rob Mirfin. Rich was 19 and already getting pretty obsessed about rock climbing. I remember going to Stanage and Rich trying a wet Shine On on top rope, he was so psyched. I failed to predict that this guy would go on to become the second best sport climber in British history with three 9a ascents (this has only been bettered by Steve Mcclure). He was also pretty nifty at bouldering doing the odd Font 8b. Rich did 23 routes 8c and above and in that list was many an old skool classic, Action Directe, Liquid Ambar, Wallstreet, Agincourt etc... For me though it was his dedication and motivation that set him apart. In a quiet suburb of Redditch south of Birmingham he spent hours and hours on a small board in his garage. He had the genetics and the abiltiy to climb hard things but this was matched by a single mindedness that i have never seen the like of. He would unleash himself on his roadtrips and would come back with fairly dismaying ticklists! I climbed with him more and more over the years and the increase in his power levels was scary. He made 1-5-9 look so easy and could knock out about 18 one armers when fresh. To this day in terms of raw power he's probably the strongest i've seen. These days Rich has other things that he likes to do with his life (he still aims to climb one 8c every year though) and i don't blame him. After years in that garage i don't think i could face that regime anymore either. I was in the Frankenjura when Rich did Action and i made a film about it. Its an ok effort i think, it could of been a lot better. I actually missed the ascent of Action because it was about 7 in the morning and i was asleep but Rich kindly did it in sections so i could finish my film. I think it makes for interesting viewing though, i especially like the moves from above sequence. Anyway for those who haven't seen it, enjoy:

Obsession from Chris Doyle on Vimeo.