Your Christmas Sermon

This is the 3rd Christmas sermon on this blog, doesn't time fly! The Sunday Sermon's were fun but they seem like ages ago now. The blogs had a quiet few months. This is because its a climbing blog and i haven't been climbing. I haven't climbed since mid November actually and no i'm not injured. I've been in a weird place motivation wise probably since September, i had been trying to get in the best shape i could for the Diamond season. After maybe 5 sessions i was going well on the route, better than last year although still getting to the same move. I had one session where i was even feeling fairly fresh up there getting there 3 times in a session. Despite this something just wasn't quite right. I felt like i was just going through the motions in order to get it done. I found myself in a strange predicament as although all i needed to do was keep going i was struggling to maintain the tunnel vision approach that was needed. The Diamond is not your standard sport crag. You're lucky to get six weeks a year there and your lucky to get good conditions more than one in three days. To do this route at this crag i needed to invest all my time and focus. I had no money, i was the poorest i'd ever been in my life. Things were just getting back on track with the missus so i needed to put some effort into that. On my return after a two week break i knew the game was up. I had lost the edge physically and this resulted in me losing the physchological battle. I was soon falling off everywhere,it was getting cold too. I resigned myself to defeat. It was bouldering season now and i knew i was weak as i'd hardly bouldered since June, it would be a hard old slog getting back into the Cave. The upshot was the desire wasn't there. I knew then i probably wouldn't climb again for a while. You need to be psyched out of your mind to climb when its so cold and i couldn't be bothered.
There has been a definite shift in my motivation in the 2nd part of this year. Like everyone i get peaks and troughs in motivation but this time it felt like a more permanent shift. I remember when i was younger i was motivated to climb on any piece of shit. I was totally obsessed and up for anything, totally mad for it. These days i can't get excited by sitting down in the mud pulling on and jumping for the top. I wish i had the same motivation as when i was younger but it is completely organic for me and can't be forced. One of the reasons that climbing has been such a big part of my life is that it has really made me feel inspired which is a completely infectious feeling. Of course i enjoy moving on rock like everyone but its the kind of drive that can stop you eating properly for a few months or make you run round the orme even though you really can't be arsed that i really crave. When the inspiration dried up i just felt a bit lost. I've been going at it for so long at the detriment of most other things i guess it was always possible that i'd end up running on fumes. I met Zippy down the Cheedale Cornice this summer, he didn't seem his normal self. He said something about things not going too well. I said "well at least you've been enjoying yourself for years". He replied something like "i've been enjoying myself too much thats the problem". And i guess this brought to the front another pressing issue. The climbing life Vs career/posessions/house/pension etc... Lots of people manage to do both obviously but we all know that to get the most out of your potential it sure does help not having a proper job. There is no right or wrong way, it is up to the individual to decide what they want from life. This is a conflict that most obsessed climbers will have to face at some point. I felt this was my time. As much as it would be nice to try and climb Liquid Ambar and travel the world i knew i didn't want to end up living in a allotment shed with nothing to my name.
I don't know when i'll start climbing again. I'm kind of dreading it as i know my base level is about font 6b so it'll be a tough old slog to get any kind of strength back. I'm looking forward to hanging out at the crag again with familiar faces. It may sound sad but climbing has felt like its given me a place in the world. I may not be finding cures for cancer etc.. but promoting the Orme is surely a worthwhile pursuit and someones got to do it! Merry Xcrement.

nutters

Fat Twat Pulls Out Wobbly Block

After years of wobbling under the bodyweight of many boulderers the wobbly block under Rockatrocity has finally fallen out. This hold gave many a disconcerting moment mid move as it used to shift position constantly. The hold is essential for In Hell, In Life, Pit of hell, Cave Life, In Heaven, The Highlife etc... Fat sport climber Bob Hickish was the man who pulled it out. I was shopping in Manchester when i got a worried text from Richie Crouch who had heard the news from Leeds. Then i heard first hand from Bob. Today i popped in to pick it up to ensure that no kid throws it over the wall. All that was left in its place was a shallow hole, it was hard to see how it had stayed in there so long. I will try and sort it out with Nodder this week. It should be ok!

Orme artefacts, original bolt from Liquid Ambar, the wobbly block, and Neil Carsons blue tat from Big Bang.

The Bearman Roams Free

Far From the Orme

Lots of hommes have been having it large out in swizzy recently with some good results. I've been getting psyched hearing the news of hard ascents. This is defo one of the top global destinations now especially for the harder grades where many world class problems exist. It is a bit of a gamble in winter with the risk of trip ending snow omnipresent but if you get it right it is a beautiful place to climb. Dave Mason and Micky Page have returned to complete two climbs that they put some effort into a few years ago. Dave crushed Vecchio Leone 8b at Brione the other day. This is undoubtedly one of the most perfect hard problems in the world. Three suprisingly ample (but awkward) perfect finger edges up a overhaning wall lead to a quartz pinch which must be squeezed like billio to gain better holds. I had a play on this when i was out there two years ago and remember thinking i could maybe get to the pinch with some work but colossal pinch strength is needed to execute the crux. There can't be a more perfect 8b anywhere (maybe Spectre??). Nice one Dave, a great tick. Similary Micky had tried From Dirt Grows the Flowers (Dave Graham 8c) a few years ago but was thrawted by bad weather if i remember correctly. He has gone back out there this season and finished the job for its 3rd (?) ascent and joining a small number have Brits to have climbed font 8c. Can only think of Jonny and Ty off the top of my head. Dobbin has done a couple of 8as out there too which is good going for a short trip. So there you go, it looks like Swizzy is catching the Orme up in terms of world significance.

Vecchio Leone from Michele Caminati on Vimeo.

Batman 7c+

Muledog Samuel Howard Clifford Cattell has done the line right of Caveman 7b on Cavewall on the top of the Little Orme. Mule did the first ascent of Caveman maybe ten years ago. Today he fought the arctic conditions on his first session back on the project for a while. Batman took him 3/4 sessions altogether and the grade is hard 7c+ but don't be surprised if it turns out to be 8a as he's strong at the moment. The problem goes from a crouching start.
This crag has a few toughies now:
Batman 7c+ (8a)
Caveman Low Start 7c+
The Weakest Link 7c
Caveman/Breezeblock 7b+
Rocket in a Pocket 7b
Caveman 7b
Right hand problem 7a+
Patch's Problem 7a
Breezeblock 7a



Ben Bransby also managed a 2nd session repeat of Bonnie 8a+ in the Cave.

Confirmation from Carson

I thought i'd ask Neil Carson if he did repeat Sea of Tranquility or not as i have always wondered. It seems that the Rockfax got it wrong - "I never repeated Sea of Tranquility - dabbled with it but was more interested with the other unclimbed lines at the time." So there you have it another myth dispelled and the 2nd ascent goes to Pete.
Not been climbing much recently, have been working more and playing lots of snooker. Have got a few things on the go though. Could do with getting some strength back. Feeling strong is nice! Some footage of my best efforts on the Diamond: