The Mules Got a Boner

Specificity is the key

This week i have been to the Mill a few times and down LPT twice doing some laps on BB. I spent a session setting and refining a 40 move circuit. The Mill is great for this as you can cross all 3 boards. At the moment i'm just trying it from 8 moves in. Haven't quite got it yet. The feeling it gives your forearms is great! The moves are pretty easy (but its steep) so you can fight until you literally can't hold on any longer. This is what i need. I'm keen to work up to doing it from the start and then i can either try and lap it or make it harder! I've got time on my side before Diamond season so with 5 weeks of intense sessions hopefully i'll be up to the job! 3 weeks before i will start the DD plan (deadhang and diet). I could also do with getting a bit stronger, am currently woefully weak on the board. Pete did Pantons project in Split Infinity, Simon Says, 8a.

Psyche Low

Since the new routes at the Dulas i have hit a bit of a lull. Psyched fluctuation's are normal over the course of a climbers year. You can't be bouncing off the walls all the time. This often will occur after getting a project done, you spend weeks living for a moment and after it comes sometimes you go onwards and upwards to the next one and sometimes you have to take a chill pill for a bit. I went climbing a few times last week. Once down LPT and once in the Cave. LPT wasn't too bad, although i couldn't really be arsed. The cave however was awful, i couldn't even be bothered to hold on long enough to complete a problem! Also its pretty hot right now and theres not much local i actually want to do. The main factor however is that i need to get some fuckin reddies. Poor is not the word. My next big focus is the Little Orme in August and to be honest i know what i need to do to get into shape for it. Rock climbing is always good for fitness but i reckon you never get the same intensity as you can by some specific training. I need to be able to complete hard 40 move power endurance. So i may use this drop in motivation to get into the Mill keep my finger in strength wise and get down with some intense PE training. I shall hopefully return fit and psyched and ready for battle! So things might not be as lively on the blogging front in the next month but i shall try and keep any orme news flowing. Keep crushing hombres!

Upside Doom/Doomside Up

I've bolted up two lines in the main Cave at Llanddulas. Upside Doom and Doomside Up share the same lower off in a hole in the roof (a la Giggleswick). I was hoping the hole would have a jug in it but it wasn't the case so i've left a sling on the lower off, the last move of both routes is to grab the sling. The right hand line (Doomside Up) is pretty shit cos its basically one move (grabbing the chain). I did this but it seemed really hard to grade, the last move was quite powerful so maybe its 6c, maybe 7a, i'm really not sure. The left hand route (Upside Doom) has a bit more sustained tricky climbing on it so is a lot better. The route is pretty powerful and has some cool moves. I did it today and think it is about 7c/+.

The Now and the Next

Whilst working the Temple i kept telling myself that when i did it i would do my best to enjoy not only the moment but also the aftermath. Too many of us climbers spend days, weeks and months desiring a specific moment (i.e. completing our projects), yet when we achieve this often the mind skips straight to the next project. For myself i know i do not spend enough time enjoying the satisfaction of completing a tricky redpoint. Its totally crazy really! Over the weekend whilst enjoying my tick i consumed:
1 box of Jelly Babies.
1 Key Lime Pie
1 Pizza
Lots of Galaxy Caramel
Bags of Fizzy Sweets
3 Milkshakes

Feeling pretty sugared out now but was nice to get this out my system after a pretty strict eating regime. I got pretty stressed on Temple so now i'm trying to relax a bit, got a few things here and there to do but the main plan is to get back to what i was doing i.e. trying to redpoint 8a's and 8a+s. Need to build up the redpoint fitness as Diamond season is approaching and i have some business there that needs completing.
Back at the Dullas Temple didn't have to wait long for its 2nd ascent. Pete nipped in on his way to Yokshire for a first redpoint tick. Yesterday Neil got it too on his 8th redpoint. At the end of my seige he spent a few days doing links and getting it wired. Good effort lads!

Temple Of Gloom

Headed back to the roof today with Tony, as i said in my previous post mastering the mental side of redpointing is of paramount importance when climbing at your limit. I had held up pretty well on this project but was finally starting to feel a bit stressed with the experience. I think this can happen to anyone after 10 days. Things were not helped when on my first two goes today i fell off the first fb7a+ boulder problem twice, not a positive sign. I couldn't wish myself to the top of this route, i had to climb it, it was time to put in a big effort. I grunted through the start on my next go and was soon at the final fb7a boulder sequence. I had studied the footage this morning and knew what angle my heel had to be at to give myself the best chance. On previous efforts i had sat on my heel more, meaning the hold looked closer but in reality was harder to get the height needed. This time i executed the move perfectly, i got the jug clipped and psyched myself for the final falloffable move. The move to the ledge, jug to jug, surely i wouldn't fall here! I made sure i didn't drop it with a final power grunt. I was there sitting on the ledge. Looking up at the final 9 metres of headwall i prayed for no fuck ups. I peeled all the tape off my fingers with my teeth so i would have maximum friction on the holds. I wiped my feet on my trousers and set off psyched but concentrating hard. Before i knew it i was in the sunshine and the moment that i had desired was here. After my first 4 forays on this line i never thought it would go so quick if at all. And thats why it was such a cool experience! Cheers to all the belayers and to Nodder for the name. As for the grade well like with any FA it is a stab in the dark, myself and Dyer reckon it probably is 8b. It might turn out to be 8a+, time will tell. I'm really not sure either way and am not that fussed either. Anyway it might get its 2nd ascent tonight, come on Neil!!!!
Some footage:

The Redpoint Game

Over the last few years i have abandoned most styles of rock climbing in order to improve my redpoint grade in bouldering and sport climbing. I am quite interested in the mental game that is redpointing. To someone who doesn't understand the issue redpointing can seem like the easy path. After all you can work it as much as you want and have as many goes as you want, doesn't normally matter how long it takes. This view belies the reality though. As anyone who has become immersed in the redpoint game will tell you it can be an extremely stressful and thought provoking process especially when at one's limit. In general like anything in life the more of it you do the better at it you get. It is my belief that physchological factors are very significant in redpointing and to become good at it it is important to try and master these especially in multi-day seiges. My most disturbing battle with mental factors that i can recall was in 2003 on Raindogs at Malham. I can remember when i started redpointing putting my shoes on and feeling incredibly nervous in the pit of my stomach. I was almost telling myself i was going to fail. It is these kind of thoughts that it is very important to master. But what is the perfect redpointing mentality, should you relax? or pump yourself up and try and climb with aggression? I guess it depends on the person and the route/experience. After a significant seige on something its also important to keep believing that the end will come. I've spent over 40 days on boulder problems (not as stressful as routes granted) and i suppose belief is the most important physchological attribute. On my present project i have been pleasantly surprised with how my mentality has held up, especially since i've had so many goes in a short space of time (the ususal recipe for mental burnout). Yesterday i got the good hold but my heel slipped off a bit and i couldn't recover. This kind of thing is hard to take as luck does play a part. It is important to keep focussed however and most importantly keep positive!