The orme was shut for a triathlon on sunday so i thought i'd go to the peak to climb and visit some folk. I stopped in at Raven Tor on saturday, conditions not great. Kristian Klemmow was finishing off the mecca repair job, we spoke about the ormes for a bit and various projects which was interesting. Andy Harris and Dobbin were lurking by pinches wall. It was smeggy but i thought i'd do a bit of bouldering. I tried Staminaband again, this was my first 8a from a while back so i was interested to see how it would feel after not having climbed on it for years. I did one or two of the moves then had a blast and fell getting the famous pinch on powerband. Was interesting comparing this problem which is a benchmark 8a, F8b+ to the thing i did on the box the day before, another level springs to mind. Went back to sheff and socialised a bit and stayed at Nige's. Next day i went to Rubicon early to meet rascal and pickled gherkin. Those boys were on Caviar but i was keen for Zeke. Have had probably two days on this when i lived in sheff once doing the moves. Conditions were ok. I did the moves quicktime and had a go from the ground. Fell off, then realised i needed to work it a bit more so i sussed my beta properly. Next two goes i got to the crux press to the dish but fell just shy of getting it, felt like i could of done it so was pleased. Stopped there cos i didn't want to go through a tip. I will defo be coming back for this, its a cool route. Felt quite easy for an 8b but this could just be because it suits me, i like those crimpy holds with bits for your thumb! Good effort to whoever rebolted it too. Pickles did Caviar (guys on a roll!). Then i went home, back to the deadhang regime tomorrow!
Finally i would like to take this opportunity to beg Keith Bradbury never to compete again, i've seen enough train wrecks!
Nigella
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Pascal on caviar
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Some kind of gay ritual
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Good to see the bear making a speedy recovery!
2 comments:
yo doylo,
what's the story behing the comment to keith?
the story is he is a disgrace and he's got a micro too
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