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Thursday, 13 November 2008

Swiss 2


Well we've had to endure some quite wet weather so far. But despite this spirits are high. On the wet days i have been exploring and looking for dry rock. I'm still on a reccy to find out what i want to climb on and what i think i can climb. Each day is useful in this respect. My ticklist changes day by day. Ty has been ticking along nicely waiting for the low temps for his harder projects. Its impressive watching him. He moves like a world beast, watching him do Conquistadors 8a+ with a disamaying sequence was very inspiring. What a man can do when he's so far beneath his limit. After a tip off from Chad and Dave i went to check out an 8a+ called The Alphane Moon at Chironico. Dave put it up back in the day and was reunited with it whilst trying a super meaty project to its left recently, This project is very disamaying. They told me The Alphane was like a limestone problem which increased my interest more. On a wet day i wandered up there solo and tried to figure it out. I did all the moves with a new sequence on the crux but couldn't move my feet. Determined not to give up i tried the original sequnce which involved a terrible slopey crimp. I failed to commit to this move cos of grease and a lack of a spotter but i think i can do it. It is the kind of problem that inspires me so i will be going back. One of the crimps is straight out of LPT - yeah! Today me and Brick headed up to Chironico, we went to check out Komilator again. I had tried this twice before in the wet, once the other day and once in january. The crux revloves around a tenuous heel, if it sticks the problem is on if not you have no chance. The other day this felt impossible. I thought about the anasazi heel and how it had sorted me out before. Often you need a baggy heel that will catch. It just so happened that Brick had such a boot, and i knew instantly that it would work. I filmed Brick as he crushed and then i got it worked. I knew i could do it that day, and then i did by the skin of my nutsack. A quick 8a in the bag, perfect. After i went to check out No mystery again, wasn't feeling inspired so we opened our account on Freak Brothers, the most aesthetic bloc in Chironico. Tonight si and Jackie and some dude called Sander arrive so the team physche should keep on rolling.

3 comments:

Nigel said...

Doylo, I remember the time when I had bigger arms. Now look how the tables have turned - I am a cheesy pale crumbly twig man while you have blossomed into a red raw 100% Angus Steak Hunk a'burning love Geoff Capes a-like.

MONSTER

Keep cranking and spreading the gospel of the G.

P.S. Saw Mule at the weekend. He showed me definitive proof that you have a micro.

Chris Doyle said...

Yes but i will always have a smaller schlong, end of....

Ghostface said...

Keep crushing hound.