BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Friday, 30 January 2009

Perky PInky

Some years ago i made a short film called Perky Pinky, here it is (thanks to Neil M for uploading it!)

Sunday, 25 January 2009

Crap on a train!

Went to the Westaway down London town last week. Was ok, felt bit sick so didn't last long. The bouldering was pretty good but as i already knew- not my scene. When it comes to training all i'm interested in in a small overhanging bit of wood full of good varied holds. I don't need a million square metres of set problems. I'm also a bit biased cos i'm so unbelievably bad at problems in commercial bouldering walls, i always have been so ii find the experience demoralising especially when it costs a tenner to get in, i mean really! Anyway i caught up with a few people including Ty, the Huffdog and underground leg Liam Halsey, another one of those British beasts who's relatively unknown. I've known Liam for years always seen him around at the crags and he was in Hueco too. Funny guy. Anyway back up North for the weekend. Kicked off with a sesh at Tremerchion, i wasn't feeling it. John Maskell did probably the 2nd ascent of Danny's 36 Chambers 7c. I headed to the cave and the box, i later found out that Old skool legend ben pritch nailed TC- great effort mate. The new Box crew were round the headland. Kingy is working his way through many of the links there. Saturday he did my problems The Malteser and Drink Driving/Ain't No Party both 7c, really nice to see this wall getting some attention. I reckon Ted could be a candidate for the 3 harder problems (Gaskins not included obviously). Malteser /Last Orders 7c+, Malteser/Last Rites 8a and Drink driving 8a+ all await second ascents as far as i know. Go for it Ted! Today i once again couldn't be arsed so me and the Cypriot had a sesh on his board, very enjoyable and eye opening. I realised i'm through with outdoor bouldering at the mo, i'm keen to train and improve. Having access to 3 quality training venues in north wales makes this easy. Here's some shots:
Ty and his new motor in Kensington:

The legend of Huff:

Huff the streetfighter:

The major of London, neil 'gresh' gresham:

Look what i've got to work with:

Long time no see- Spidey:

I got on a national rail train and could instantly smell crap, as i walked down the aisles this is what i found:

Very disgusting, i took a seat a few places down and sat and watched peoples reactions as they first noticed it- i was in stitches! ha ha

Sunday, 18 January 2009

London Living

Well reality has well and truly kicked back in now as i'm back at work. This time on the Royal Courts of Justice on the Strand. Not hating the city as much as i thought i would. Its not too bad as yet. Anyway i hope to catch up with Welsh exile the Huffdog next week. I may drag him to a climbing wall, i'm also keen to check out the local talent but we shall see. Climbing wise i'm psyched to train but obviously this is tricky working away. Halfway is still a priority, tried it this weekend, feels good when i feel strong. Pete was trying it today, he was taking the swing like a man so i thought i'd try it. Managed the 'swing' first go which was a shock. Pete should get it next sesh - a man in form! I'm going to admit it, when he did Pools i was shocked, but psyched for him at the same time. After all every beast in Britain must of tried that at some stage. Anyway i love the climbing on Halfway (apart from that one sodding move!) so trying it doesn't feel like to much of a chore. I think i'm going to stick to my undercut, heel beta though cos it allows you to really adjust and get the slot good. Sausage did TC yesterday,
good work. I also had a return to form on the Box, felt light there yesterday and had a burn on Jack the Drunk, it is the main priority on there. Sausage and ted did Last Rites which was interesting for me. They both pissed it, it seems its soft for the grade although Sausage knows how to bone and Ted has flashed Dangerous Brothers so no surprise he pissed it. After i went to see if there was any bouldering potential at the Hole of Creation on the Little Orme, i almost got blown off into the sea. Anyway there isn't but the Magic Flute 7c looked so good, straight out of Seynes. Needs rebolting though.

Sunday, 11 January 2009

Climbing and footage

Nice shot of fata Morgana by Ben Pritch.

Went to Lakes yesterday with Panto, Mondo an Hock for a stone circles mission. We hit Gillercombe area with Gregory Chapmale an Tomo. First up we checked out Gregorys new additions at the sour milk crag, very nice specially the Cloud Chambers stuff. Was too cold and windy up the hill at Gillercombe and i kept going arse over tit on the ice in my shit sneaks. Ray ran out of petrol on the M6 on way home which wasn't cool! No it wasn't.
Anyway i have seen some dismaying footage recently. Firstly Hock showed me Leroy falling off on the jugs of In Hell/RA/Clyde. Frankly one of the most dismaying things i've ever seen, very dismaying. I hope he does it i really do. Will be the caves hardest for sure.
I also watched Dave Macleod repeat Simo's route A Muerte 9a at Siurana. After speaking to Simmo i iwas assured that Macleod was very strong on this route. He knows the route well and was very impressed. So i would like to pay homage to Macleod - what a beast!

Thursday, 8 January 2009

A little Trailer

Today i went to the pass and the Wave with Hock, we climbed on Diesel and Breathe. Breathe no longer felt do able after fat bastard Hocking pulled the only decent hold off when i was away. The Wave is an interesting place. Anyway here is a trailer:

Wednesday, 7 January 2009

Court tomorrow

Tomorrow i'm up in court for not having an MOT. When asked if i have anything to say i intend to shout at the judge that he shouldn't mess with the higher powers. I will explain i am in allegiance with the G and as they take me down for contempt of court i will shout "praise G", "praise G" til my voice fails.
Today i was reunited with the Orme, i ran into the Cave with tears streaming down my face and gave it a little kiss. Then i had my best ever go on Halfway, hopefully it wasn't a fluke and it will go down soon.

Holiday phone pics

Black Mirror 6b+

Chad n Dave

The Devil goats

8c appetite

Limited edition 7c+

The light of my life, the Alphane Moon

Keith on Molunk

Conquistadors 8a+

Si on Arabald link up

Master Newman


Chiron in snow

Extravagant Xmas dinner at La Finca

Master Page

Jambe de bois 7b+, Hautes Plaines

Font gite

Snow in font too

Mule's new shop in France

Tuesday, 6 January 2009

Home Sweet Home

Well i'm back, after two months of snow and wet feet i'm safely back in mighty holywell. The day i left Cresciano, Mick cemented his position as a world player by crushing Confessions 8b+ in a single sesh. Gobsmacking! I arrived in font to prime conditions, by the time i'd got into it though i was feeling too knackered to tick much. Despite not getting much ticked this was probably the best i've ever climbed in the forest. I was actually holding slopers well, a strabge phenomenon for me. Highlights include almost doing Berezina and tickling the pocket on Fata Morgana (great bloc!). I'm well psyched to go back now sometime for an extended peiod. It truly is the worlds best bouldering. Anyway i've just walked through the door and am knackered. I must get some beauty sleep, the orme awaits tomorrow, oh how i have missed the place! Finally i would like to say a few words of praise for my little Nissan. I'm so proud of you girl for not letting me down once on the trip. Bless!