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Sunday, 28 September 2008


Last night i went out with Monolith and his buddies to circus in Liverpool, Loco Dice was playing. Haven't been to techno for ages so was good. Danced for 5 hours sober as a judge which i thought was a good effort! Got home at 7 - knackered.
The brits have been crushing in Swizzy, Ty got Practice done and Liam 8a+ Desroy is now Liam 8b Desroy. Good work fellas. 3 weeks of work left now!

Sunday, 21 September 2008

Exploration and Trigger Cut

This weekend i went in search of new bouldering. Firstly to the Boadafon hillside- i found myself running round a wood like a kid in a candy shop, rock everywhere but none good enough. We tried to go to Pumpsville but we couldn't even get there it was so overgrown. Its a shame no one ever goes. Today me and Matt went back to Rhiw Goch, it was baking so i went exploring again, once again almost but not quite. I also climbed a lot in the cave, it is my opinion that any cave stalwart just find Trigger Cut steady, it is after all Cave bread and butter. Unfortunately i don't,although one go this weekend i fell out the kneebar- punt! Basically i need to get strong on this bastard problem so i can complete halfway. I'm also interested in doing Chris's problem Daisy From Concrete, today i did the rib moves fron where it gets hard and got into TC (this is about 7b+/c and is some of the best moves in the Cave IMO), once again just need to get stronger on the latter cos i know my power endurance can cope with this problem, after all the start is only V5. One month of work left now then CLIMB!

Friday, 19 September 2008

Bolton Wanderers

I would just like to say many men have the potential to climb hard (see Sunday sermon on the overachiever) but not everyone can step it up a level and get physched and focussed enough to climb at their limit. Smitton and Pasquill can - not only do they have the physical attributes of hard climbers but they also have a mental toughness and edge that is very difficult to attain if you don't have it naturally. Congrats on crushing 8c+s you guys. And Paul to repeat a Mcclure 8c+ at the tor is extra impressive so give yourself a thumb up your arse from me you Euro crushing globe trotting superstar. I'm going climbing now but i do not have high hopes as i was up all night.

Sunday, 14 September 2008

What a difference a day makes!

Well after doing bugger all in magic in true doylo style i felt strong as soon as i got home. First port of call was Parisellas where i kept getting to the last hard move of Halfway- very pleasing. The Liverpool posse were out in force, Mike Adams did Crucial with the original beta. I went to the box (bit wet) and did last rites, jackies and Whisky. All good. Today i went back to the Cattells and we climbed on our respective 8a, 8a+ and 8b projects. Danny's looking good, he'll crush soon and mule should bag greenheart. Being the greasiest man on the earth doesn't help on a warm day. Also nice work to Chris Sharma on climbing that meaty route - the most influential climber of his generation! Back to work now unfortunately

Saturday, 13 September 2008

A hint of magic a dose of Gee and a whole lot of namedropping

Well i arrived home last night. It was a good trip, i failed to fulfill all my objectives though. Firstly i wanted to crush some nice tricky blocs, in this i failed. Four days of climbing wasn't really enough for me and although i did some nice climbs i failed on those at the satisfaction level. Secondly i wanted to spread the word of Gee, in this i was definetely successful. Many world class beasts did i meet in the wood and with the help of Mickey and Liam we planted the seed of Gee into their minds. It was a good crack in the wood with the brits and all the wads. Matt had a good time doing a couple of quality 7as. Stressman pictured below:

Ty and Chad turned up and took residence at our place, the crack was good and i got some good footage of the beasts. Liam and Mick were climbing well as usual. I saw Liam crush The Right Hand of Darkness (a very inspiring bloc for me - one day!) and Octopussy. As for Mickey i won't say too much about this guy cos it'll make him blush but i am very happy to report that Britain has another world class boulderer and bearing in mind that he has only been climbing for 3 and a half years i'm sure there's more to come. Think powerful and smooth - spiffing bloke too! Here's a picture of Mickey on of Sharmas hardest Practice of the Wild (an incredible line- Mick did most the moves):

This problem features a ficking huge dyno to a jug as the last move - 8c anyone? Zangeryl showed up when Mickey and Ty were trying the moves- he must have wondered who these people were. Ty was cranking as usual, he had a good day doing Electroboogie, Octopussy and Massive Attack. He's in swizzy til xmas so he's chill. Anyway back to Gee - Liam and Mickey and Dave climbed with Paul Robinson (very world class climber) and they told him about the Pill Box, they told him Ty had inspected and was impressed. The seed was planted. Basically whenever we were around wads we would big up the Gee as being the worlds best- we wanted them to know that yes they were good climbers who could crush but there is a man out there out on his own when it comes to hard moves. Nalle and Sean Mccoll took the brunt of our Gee praising. I would also like to say that Gee is a more humble and genuine man than these guys who were up there own shitters. Mickey made a funny after watching Nalle do One Summer in Paradise 8b- that looked 'Nalle' Mickey quirked - ha ha. Chuck Fryberger was out there making another shit film, i told him of Gee and showed him a pic. He replied - "i've heard of this John Gaskins but i've never met him". Yeah no shit mate, no ones met him! Anyway i have footage of some nice stuff including Practice, i would like to make a nice flick at some point. As for me well its back to the drawing board, i always known that i can crush harder at home than abroad (like some dodgy footy team) but this is something i'd like to address. Working and not training for 4 months didn't help either. Anyway the dream of 8a bloc is still alive and i will be back out there soon enough. Ciao!

Friday, 5 September 2008

A word from the wise

"Accept it or not you have a god given duty to spread the word. We have been enlightened by the Gee, now we must spread his glory. Look to the East on the third day and you will receive your commands. Praise Gee, praise Gee."

More vids

Yesterday i was resting so in my hours of boredom i uploaded some more stuff to youtube. Includes the font vid - the first thing i ever edited and very popular with some). Enjoy, i'm going on holiday today.

Wednesday, 3 September 2008

The Plan

The other day Danny came up with a brilliant idea. We're going to dress up in white robes and acquire some white staliions. Then we're going to ride North up the M6 on our trusty steads, having a quick stop off at Gee's house in Warton to sacrifice a newly born goat. Then we shall continue on our quest up to Kentmere. Upon reaching little font we shall go by foot and one by one we shall kneel down in front of Shadowplay and pledge our allegiance to the Gee.

Tuesday, 2 September 2008

The Future

Its here! Everyone knows about the potential for super links in the Cave. Well i for one thought these links were for the next generation - apparently not! Liam and Danny have been beavering away in the Cave to bring home the big numbers. Liam is close to linking In Hell into Clyde, Danny has been trying RA into TC but has plans to link it from the big link start. These will be big big numbers i kid you not. I haven't seen Danny keen for a while, he's even got back into the Den. Good to see. Liam is in swizzy now, hopefully he'll crush! I fly out on friday with no expectations, i'm hoping the lack of climbing can be overruled by the extreme physche that i have coarsing through my veins. If i do a lot of climbing and get a few cool ticks i will be happy.