BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Saturday, 13 September 2008

A hint of magic a dose of Gee and a whole lot of namedropping

Well i arrived home last night. It was a good trip, i failed to fulfill all my objectives though. Firstly i wanted to crush some nice tricky blocs, in this i failed. Four days of climbing wasn't really enough for me and although i did some nice climbs i failed on those at the satisfaction level. Secondly i wanted to spread the word of Gee, in this i was definetely successful. Many world class beasts did i meet in the wood and with the help of Mickey and Liam we planted the seed of Gee into their minds. It was a good crack in the wood with the brits and all the wads. Matt had a good time doing a couple of quality 7as. Stressman pictured below:


Ty and Chad turned up and took residence at our place, the crack was good and i got some good footage of the beasts. Liam and Mick were climbing well as usual. I saw Liam crush The Right Hand of Darkness (a very inspiring bloc for me - one day!) and Octopussy. As for Mickey i won't say too much about this guy cos it'll make him blush but i am very happy to report that Britain has another world class boulderer and bearing in mind that he has only been climbing for 3 and a half years i'm sure there's more to come. Think powerful and smooth - spiffing bloke too! Here's a picture of Mickey on of Sharmas hardest Practice of the Wild (an incredible line- Mick did most the moves):

This problem features a ficking huge dyno to a jug as the last move - 8c anyone? Zangeryl showed up when Mickey and Ty were trying the moves- he must have wondered who these people were. Ty was cranking as usual, he had a good day doing Electroboogie, Octopussy and Massive Attack. He's in swizzy til xmas so he's chill. Anyway back to Gee - Liam and Mickey and Dave climbed with Paul Robinson (very world class climber) and they told him about the Pill Box, they told him Ty had inspected and was impressed. The seed was planted. Basically whenever we were around wads we would big up the Gee as being the worlds best- we wanted them to know that yes they were good climbers who could crush but there is a man out there out on his own when it comes to hard moves. Nalle and Sean Mccoll took the brunt of our Gee praising. I would also like to say that Gee is a more humble and genuine man than these guys who were up there own shitters. Mickey made a funny after watching Nalle do One Summer in Paradise 8b- that looked 'Nalle' Mickey quirked - ha ha. Chuck Fryberger was out there making another shit film, i told him of Gee and showed him a pic. He replied - "i've heard of this John Gaskins but i've never met him". Yeah no shit mate, no ones met him! Anyway i have footage of some nice stuff including Practice, i would like to make a nice flick at some point. As for me well its back to the drawing board, i always known that i can crush harder at home than abroad (like some dodgy footy team) but this is something i'd like to address. Working and not training for 4 months didn't help either. Anyway the dream of 8a bloc is still alive and i will be back out there soon enough. Ciao!

1 comment:

lore said...

doylo,
can't wait to see some vids!!!