BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Monday, 29 November 2010

Far From the Orme

Lots of hommes have been having it large out in swizzy recently with some good results. I've been getting psyched hearing the news of hard ascents. This is defo one of the top global destinations now especially for the harder grades where many world class problems exist. It is a bit of a gamble in winter with the risk of trip ending snow omnipresent but if you get it right it is a beautiful place to climb. Dave Mason and Micky Page have returned to complete two climbs that they put some effort into a few years ago. Dave crushed Vecchio Leone 8b at Brione the other day. This is undoubtedly one of the most perfect hard problems in the world. Three suprisingly ample (but awkward) perfect finger edges up a overhaning wall lead to a quartz pinch which must be squeezed like billio to gain better holds. I had a play on this when i was out there two years ago and remember thinking i could maybe get to the pinch with some work but colossal pinch strength is needed to execute the crux. There can't be a more perfect 8b anywhere (maybe Spectre??). Nice one Dave, a great tick. Similary Micky had tried From Dirt Grows the Flowers (Dave Graham 8c) a few years ago but was thrawted by bad weather if i remember correctly. He has gone back out there this season and finished the job for its 3rd (?) ascent and joining a small number have Brits to have climbed font 8c. Can only think of Jonny and Ty off the top of my head. Dobbin has done a couple of 8as out there too which is good going for a short trip. So there you go, it looks like Swizzy is catching the Orme up in terms of world significance.

Vecchio Leone from Michele Caminati on Vimeo.

Saturday, 27 November 2010

Batman 7c+

Muledog Samuel Howard Clifford Cattell has done the line right of Caveman 7b on Cavewall on the top of the Little Orme. Mule did the first ascent of Caveman maybe ten years ago. Today he fought the arctic conditions on his first session back on the project for a while. Batman took him 3/4 sessions altogether and the grade is hard 7c+ but don't be surprised if it turns out to be 8a as he's strong at the moment. The problem goes from a crouching start.
This crag has a few toughies now:
Batman 7c+ (8a)
Caveman Low Start 7c+
The Weakest Link 7c
Caveman/Breezeblock 7b+
Rocket in a Pocket 7b
Caveman 7b
Right hand problem 7a+
Patch's Problem 7a
Breezeblock 7a

Ben Bransby also managed a 2nd session repeat of Bonnie 8a+ in the Cave.

Saturday, 6 November 2010

Confirmation from Carson

I thought i'd ask Neil Carson if he did repeat Sea of Tranquility or not as i have always wondered. It seems that the Rockfax got it wrong - "I never repeated Sea of Tranquility - dabbled with it but was more interested with the other unclimbed lines at the time." So there you have it another myth dispelled and the 2nd ascent goes to Pete.
Not been climbing much recently, have been working more and playing lots of snooker. Have got a few things on the go though. Could do with getting some strength back. Feeling strong is nice! Some footage of my best efforts on the Diamond: