BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Monday, 29 November 2010

Far From the Orme

Lots of hommes have been having it large out in swizzy recently with some good results. I've been getting psyched hearing the news of hard ascents. This is defo one of the top global destinations now especially for the harder grades where many world class problems exist. It is a bit of a gamble in winter with the risk of trip ending snow omnipresent but if you get it right it is a beautiful place to climb. Dave Mason and Micky Page have returned to complete two climbs that they put some effort into a few years ago. Dave crushed Vecchio Leone 8b at Brione the other day. This is undoubtedly one of the most perfect hard problems in the world. Three suprisingly ample (but awkward) perfect finger edges up a overhaning wall lead to a quartz pinch which must be squeezed like billio to gain better holds. I had a play on this when i was out there two years ago and remember thinking i could maybe get to the pinch with some work but colossal pinch strength is needed to execute the crux. There can't be a more perfect 8b anywhere (maybe Spectre??). Nice one Dave, a great tick. Similary Micky had tried From Dirt Grows the Flowers (Dave Graham 8c) a few years ago but was thrawted by bad weather if i remember correctly. He has gone back out there this season and finished the job for its 3rd (?) ascent and joining a small number have Brits to have climbed font 8c. Can only think of Jonny and Ty off the top of my head. Dobbin has done a couple of 8as out there too which is good going for a short trip. So there you go, it looks like Swizzy is catching the Orme up in terms of world significance.

Vecchio Leone from Michele Caminati on Vimeo.

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