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Tuesday, 26 January 2010


I have thought a lot recently about how to plan out my climbing this year. Last year was good but it could have been even better if i knew what i know now. I learnt a lot last year about training and dieting and about my own potential. At the moment i am training quite hard and trying to fatten up to 12 stone. All this means is i eat whatever i want. I am climbing (mainly on the board) lots. In a few weeks i will start using a weight belt a bit at the wall. I have been purposely avoiding deadhanging because i know for me that this is one of the most effective excercises and i think such exercises are less effective when you do them all year round. In my opinion its about shocking the body. I really want to be climbing well in spring/summer so thats when i'll deadhang. I really hope to be able to keep the training up right until the summer if my motivation allows. I will start deadhanging in March then start dieting in April. I intend to use the weightbelt to keep my at my standard weight during my diet period so hopefully when i discard the weightbelt i will feel light as a feather. Last year i lost weight and got into really good shape. I had no idea how long it would last and was working away from home every day and not taking advantage of my ability to one arm slopey crimps. I was climbing really strong for maybe six weeks but not capitalising on it. This year i plan to crush when i feel good. I should be in a better finacial position as i move from this silly house in 2 weeks into a much more affordable place. The project list is long and varied but i'd really just like to go up a grade in sport and bouldering. I think i could have done this last year so am hopeful. Would be nice to finish this off too:

Monday, 25 January 2010

Tales of Crushing

The Inspector Neil Mawson txt me today to tell me the news he'd just done his first 8c,Espacio Tiempo at Wildside, Sella yesterday. Interestingly he said that Cry Freedom felt harder! Good effort shag, here is a pic of him of his tits:

Just come back from the Orme where Richie Crouch just crushed his nemesis Pit Of Hell, Big up the Crouchster!

Friday, 22 January 2010

Tommy's Board

Yesterday i went up to Tommy's out in the sticks to view his board and training regime. I found a obsessed and dedicated Mr Chamings. He has been seiging this shit since the summer a few days a week. The guy has meaty sessions, he sits in his shed with the timid hound, sticks his timer on and then pulls on and beasts it. His board has the biggest kickboard in the world which is a bit strange at first. The holds are fingery and very very tensiony. I was impressed, it is a different kind of board climbing to what i'm used to, very little swinging off, the holds are too bad for that.
A good session was had.

And finally another shot of the mill:

Oh yeah and i've had 5 days on!!! yeah

Monday, 18 January 2010

Mad Dogs and Englishmen.....

I popped to the orme on saturday and found 20 people trying to climb in a completely gopping cave, it was really a sight! Brain transplant anyone?
I also spotted the next big thing in climbing, a Mr Dave Deary, this guy is the new beast on the block. Here he is trying to nick my project:

Saturday, 16 January 2010

The Worlds Best Board Just Got Better

Have had a couple of comeback sessions in the Mill this week. Me and Nodder are getting well psyched for the place. I've always thought the 50 to be the best board i've climbed on. When Dave suggested a partial reset a while ago i was dead against it. This week though i have looked at the board with fresh eyes and it could indeed be improved. There were many nasty, stupid and badly positioned holds on the wall that needed to be taken off or re-positioned. The tufa has come down as has the snadge discs that took up so much space. We also got a box full of new holds, many of which were very nice so we wacked those on too. The top and left side is now a lot more fleshed out. All that remains is to have a session on there. Yesterday the temperature shot up 8 degrees, the Cave was sacked because of the temperature inversion and interestingly the holds in the Mill were also damp. So there may not be many tales of outdoors rock climbing on here for a bit although i'm keen for the odd day here and there. I will try and keep my finger on the pulse ormewise!

Monday, 11 January 2010

Ham String

I like this word, Ham String. However i have a dodgy one at the moment, it seems all the heel manouveres in the cold in the cave without stretching have sacked it! I've never thought about having to warm up my legs before! Anyway i don't want to sack it more as i know they can be a bugger to get right. Soooo i'm gonna leave the cave for a bit (bar the odd visit here and there). The only things i want to do in there at the mo involve heels. So what instead? well i could do with getting some board steel so i think i'll re-locate to the Mill for a bit. Maybe even do some circuits, we'll see, will be good for me whatever!

Tuesday, 5 January 2010

New Toy

Braved the snow on the 5 minute drive to the Cave today with Nodder and Chris. The back of the Cave seemed like the sensible choice considering the wind and the temps so we jumped on the impossible roof project and then Louis Armstrong, a good sesh was had by all. Played around on other stuff then Nodder reminded me of Hocks old project Broken Heart/Trigger Cut. I was never sure about this one but after a play today it climbed very well. It combines possibly my 3 favourite bits of climbing in the cave, the start of Broken Heart, the East Coker move and Trigger Cut. Well psyched for trying this more now. Its probably 7c/+ to get into TC then obviously TC, mega.

Sunday, 3 January 2010


Headed to Tan-Y-Grysiau near Blaenau with CJD yesterday. Had been here maybe 8 years ago with the boys, lots of rock! Didn't know what to expect on the way as we knew there was a lot of snow. I wanted to check out Jordans stellar new line from last year, Flick of the Wrist. The problem didn't dissapoint. Brilliant high overhanging wall with great holds. Unfortunately the crux sloper at the top was wet, and so was the thumb on one of the pinches. Still had a play though, defo one to go back for:

Ther sit start is also immense but absolutely savage, Chris is very keen for it but your talking very big numbers for this one. Also checked out the other hard problems Hippocampus and New Noise.

Friday, 1 January 2010

Manchester Dogs Broke

Popped down to Angel Bay today and to my dismay found the starting left hand jug of Manchester Dogs had broken off. This is one of the old skool Font 8a's in wales and despite being in a hole is pretty classic. In place of the jug hold is a slopeyish crimp. I am pleased to announce that the problem is just as good but a fair bit harder. There was only really one hard move before (the move off the good right side hold). Now it is just as hard to get the right hold and the crux is a bit trickier too. I would say as it was probably soft 8a before its hard 8a now. All we need now is some beast to come and re-climb it.