BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Saturday, 31 July 2010

Christopher Doyle Progress Report

The foot was taken off the gas on the training front this week as i had to endure the slight inconvenience of going to work. I climbed in the Mill on Monday and had a 'comeback' sesh today. Have been hammering the circuits for about 3 weeks now, have definitely made some progress on the PE front. I'm feeling the need to get on the stone soon though. Need to make sure that what i have been doing will translate to actual endurance outside. I really hope i haven't been pissing in the wind! On paper i should be fitter but you never know with this sport. My main concern at the moment however isn't if i'm getting fitter or not its the inability of my arms to haul me up hard moves. I am bizzarely weak at the moment and despite bouldering on the steep board i'm just not getting any stronger. For the 2nd half of my Diamond project i need fitness, for the first half although i don't need to be a power monster it is always very helpful if you can turn on the afterburners when you hit a hard move. Anyway i need to get on rock to see where i'm at on the fitness front. Hopefully i'll soon be stronger soon too, i need to be. The weather needs to sort itself out too, the Diamond is a fickle beast and any humidity or dampness in the air is bad news. The good conditions ratio is about 1 day in 3. The bird ban comes off August 15th so lets hope for some sunny weeks around then.

Sunday, 25 July 2010

Breck Road Footage

Not too much to blog about at the mo. The weathers gone tits up and i'm spending my climbing time clinging to overhanging wood. There is still much work to be done as i attempt to make my training even more specific. Here is some footage from the vault including the amazing Swing of Fire:

A big jellyfish down LPT:

Monday, 19 July 2010

The John Dunne of the Orme

The big fella used to fluctuate a stone or two in between routes/seasons. Well i appear to be the same, i've managed to gain 9 pounds since the dulas campaign!
Too much of this:

And not enough of these:

Consequently i feel very weak. Usually there is a 7a+ or two i can do in the Mill regardless, at the mo the limit is 7a. Sweet jeez. On the upside fitness is more important to me and the circuits are going well, i'm enjoying them too. Managed a shortish 8a one i set a while ago (bit pointless unless your doing it with short rests) but have been doing ok on my longer circuit. Almost managed it the other day, also have a 7b+/c circuit which i've started doing with a 4 minute rest. Would be good to get this done on the minute eventually. The Diamond season looms. I'm hoping come mid August that my form and the weather take a turn for the better. This rain has come as a bit of a shock! Hope all your projects are staying dry!
Nodder in the Mill:

I even went multipitch climbing the other day, Bramble Buttress at Tremadog.

Monday, 12 July 2010

Pidgeons Cave

Went down Pidgeons this eve with Pete, i've been there a few times over the years but never really got excited about it. I'm not sure why! Probably because the bottom of the routes are quite sandy and it needs rebolting. I've done the 7b Koo before, great steep fun. The harder routes are so steep, proper roofs! George Smith did a great looking 8a here. One of the harder routes Stark 8a is a Neil Carson route which has resin bolts in it. I dogged up and worked it out, then Pete fell off the last move on the flash. He did it next go. I was finding it pretty tough, the last sequence was a burly boulder problem on undercuts. A true PE route! Anyway i'm keen to go back for it, give me something to try for a bit. I'm gonna re-equip the place too.

Mr Men Undies:

Bit of a shit vid, (too far away)!

The Mules Got a Boner

Saturday, 10 July 2010

Specificity is the key

This week i have been to the Mill a few times and down LPT twice doing some laps on BB. I spent a session setting and refining a 40 move circuit. The Mill is great for this as you can cross all 3 boards. At the moment i'm just trying it from 8 moves in. Haven't quite got it yet. The feeling it gives your forearms is great! The moves are pretty easy (but its steep) so you can fight until you literally can't hold on any longer. This is what i need. I'm keen to work up to doing it from the start and then i can either try and lap it or make it harder! I've got time on my side before Diamond season so with 5 weeks of intense sessions hopefully i'll be up to the job! 3 weeks before i will start the DD plan (deadhang and diet). I could also do with getting a bit stronger, am currently woefully weak on the board. Pete did Pantons project in Split Infinity, Simon Says, 8a.

Sunday, 4 July 2010

Psyche Low

Since the new routes at the Dulas i have hit a bit of a lull. Psyched fluctuation's are normal over the course of a climbers year. You can't be bouncing off the walls all the time. This often will occur after getting a project done, you spend weeks living for a moment and after it comes sometimes you go onwards and upwards to the next one and sometimes you have to take a chill pill for a bit. I went climbing a few times last week. Once down LPT and once in the Cave. LPT wasn't too bad, although i couldn't really be arsed. The cave however was awful, i couldn't even be bothered to hold on long enough to complete a problem! Also its pretty hot right now and theres not much local i actually want to do. The main factor however is that i need to get some fuckin reddies. Poor is not the word. My next big focus is the Little Orme in August and to be honest i know what i need to do to get into shape for it. Rock climbing is always good for fitness but i reckon you never get the same intensity as you can by some specific training. I need to be able to complete hard 40 move power endurance. So i may use this drop in motivation to get into the Mill keep my finger in strength wise and get down with some intense PE training. I shall hopefully return fit and psyched and ready for battle! So things might not be as lively on the blogging front in the next month but i shall try and keep any orme news flowing. Keep crushing hombres!