BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Monday 16 November 2009

Cave Season

Well after a bit of a worrying spell i can finally say that i once again really like to go bouldering. This is a bit of a relief as a:) the weather has crapped out BIG TIME and b:) i hated the thought that i'd been wasting my time over all these years. One day i woke up and it just clicked, bouldering seemed like a worthwhile pursuit again. And the cherry on the cake was that i was even psyched for the Cave again. This is quite handy as it currently rains every day and opportunities for none cave activities are few and far between. Even after the most significant seepage there are usually dry holds in the cave. Its normally only completely knackered after a change in temperature when an inversion occurs. After all the recent redpointing a bit of stress free bouldering has been a breath of fresh air. I have several Cave projects on the go, Halfway, Broken Heart/Sams and now Pilgrim. I have been trying the ramp section of Pilgrim for donkeys years. Its probably the piece of rock that i've tried the most and had the least success on. No one else's sequences worked for me and i had tried everything i could thing of! Going right to left (i.e Cave Life) i find quite steady but going the other way just seemed completely desperate! Well the other day my stubborness finally paid off and the beta was revealed, YYFY! Soon i should be into RA although this feels hard right now so a bit of seiging will be on the cards i'm sure. Need to tone up my bouldering stength after all the sport climbing. To me Pilgrim is one of the most obvious of the Cave links so it would be great to do it, also would achieve a long held ambition to do an 8a+ in there. Theres nothing better than being in that cave when waters dripping from the roof and outside the rain is pouring and your hammering three holds into submission!
John Maskell working In Heaven:

8 comments:

Adam Lincoln said...

Just needed a bit of Lincoln magic beta ;-)

Doylo said...

I didn't use your shit sequence in the end sausage

Adam Lincoln said...

How did you do it? Lower left foot?

Doylo said...

swing like a wilderbeast! Get the furthest right holds with feet on left wall then swing feet over to RA and press out into sidepull jug. The crux is getting your foot on first go after the swing. Tricksome but it goes

Adam Lincoln said...

Hmmm, might stick with my method, crux is just getting that first foot to stick, then i should be in. Bar rock attrocity!

Doylo said...

Yeah just that hard 7c to finish up

dave said...

Can I have some of your cave pshyce please? Mine still seems to be lost in the dark distant past somewhere.

Doylo said...

Yes when it goes it feels like its gone forever!