BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Monday, 18 October 2010


When i lived in Holywell i spent a lot of time climbing in the Eglwyseg valley near Langollen. People have climbed here for years with a lot of the routes protected by fixed gear. In the early noughties the old fixed protection started to get replaced with stainless bolts and new sport routes started to go up. A new guide book came out and the areas popularity was assured. I stopped coming here a few years ago as i had done most of the better 7's at the time and normally found myself at the Ormes. The Valley has a lot going for it however. Its obviously not tidal and apart from a hot summers day conditions are nearly always good. There are lots of 7's to go at and quite a few 8's up to 8b. It feels like quite a stress free scene compared to the Ormes! There are even some projects. Rob Mirfin has been putting up hard new routes here for a few years. I have been a few times recently and am quite keen to get back into it. On Sunday i went with Mule and we did a 7b+ called Cubase which was cool. I also fell a foot move away from flashing a 7c called Dyperspace. My hand uncurled as i tried to move my foot up, was quite gutting as i've never flashed 7c in Britain. The lack of climbing has taken its toll though and i feel in poor shape. 5 weeks ago i was doing 8a/+ worth of climbing 3 times a session on the Diamond and now my arms feel tired after warming up. Haven't had much urge to go climbing although when i've been i have enjoyed it.

Lee Proctor, Mr Dinbren:

Mule flashing Cubase:

1 comment:

Dave said...

Class! I have to admit i miss my old local... ya gotta love Dinbren