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Sunday, 24 July 2011

Back in the Game

Well after 3 and a half weeks i finally feel like i can start to climb properly again. The injury feels fine on the stuff i've been doing but i'm trying to be careful as i know it will be vulnerable for another week or two. I have mainly been doing non steep stuff to ease it back in and have re-aquainted myself with some of the old classics like Face Race and Pink Pinkie. I did my 20th new route of the year, a nice long 6c and today had a cracking day on the Orme. It was early tide down LPT and the sun was out but there was a nice breeze and the conditions were good. Usual good scene down there, i did Night Glue and Bad Boy and chilled and watched the hommes. As the sea came in we scarpered to Pigeon's. It was mint there too and i dispatched Koo Koo and Stiff Upper Lip again, both first go. I'm convinced now that Stiff Upper is 7c+ and not 8a. The extensions still nails though! Yesterday i had my first dose of steep climbing and tried a great 7b+ by Breck Road called The Mask. I had been saving this for a possible flash attempt so i foolishly sent Mule up first. He fell, i fell, he did, i fell. I then got shut down on a bouldery 7a+. This was the most demoralised i'd felt for a while. It's easy to be pessimistic after this but i was pleased with todays performance, two 7c's and a 7c+ all first go is a great day for me even if i've done the routes before. I find it easy to think the worst of my form. This is due to a long history of mediocrity after time off but sometimes i need to be a bit more optimistic. A great day was rounded off with Gav swimming out to sea in his harness to save a lad who didn't need rescuing and a barbecue on the ledge in the sun. 'Oh i do like to be beside the seaside!'. The plan now is to get on Gorgys board pretty soon to test my bouldering power and get back to where i was. My fitness feels ok and i've still got the flow on the rock but i've put weight on by comfort eating and need to steel up again. Can't wait to get back on those loevely projects!
North Wales guidebook mogul Mr P:


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