BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Sunday, 29 July 2012

Badger Badger Badger

Ally Smith has completed an old project on the Dive Dive Dive sector on the Upper Drive. His route Badger Badger Badger (8a+) is essentially a direct start to the classic 7b, Dive Dive Dive. The route features a hard and reachy boulder problem passing the 2nd bolt, Ally estimated this section to be about font 7b. 6 more long moves then lead to DDD up which the route finishes. Ally reckoned it was comparable in difficulty and style to Energy Vampire (8a+) at Malham. The route is very morpho so it will be interesting to see how shorties get on. Nice one Ally, great to have another hard route above the road. It doesn't look like we're going to break last years record of 13 new grade 8's though. The weather and lack of new lines has seen to that. I counted 4 so far.

Since my big tick on Pill Box i've been back a couple of times to try the Last Rites link. I've got through Drink Driving again both times but the harder finish is a different ball game and it feels some way off. If you can get through DD every now and again on Last Drink it should just be a matter of time. On this link significantly more PE is needed. I've been playing about on Last Rites trying to suss easier beta. I don't think there is a easier method for me and my beta is quick fro the link. I'm not convinced it's 7b though, the first hard move off the shit pinch is a bitch on the link. I'm still adjusting to the fact that i can lap something that has represented my limit for so long - it's a bizarre feeling. I've had moments like this when i've had a freak day or lost weight but i'm experiencing an elevated level at the moment! It seems i've just got stronger! I'd definitely be considering downgrading DD if Ed and Dan hadn't of confirmed the grade. Hopefully if i can keep doing DD i'll make progress on it soon. I always regarded this one as a pipe dream for me, i thought Ed Hamer would be the man for the job. So i'm delighted that it's a realistic proposition.

No comments: