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Monday, 3 September 2012

Paper Birds

Dan Knight has climbed a project line at the ferocious limestone cave the Gop, a stones throw from Dyserth. Dan lives near Chester now so the Gop was a relatively close hit and being a lover of hard moves he got into the place. A few years ago i worked out a new hybrid line in between Push the Button and Smoke a Bloke. It used holds on both problems but climbed really well and felt independent and very worthwhile. I went there with some beasts and Ned Feehally got keen for it and worked out the shouldery, body tensiony moves. Footage of his attempts here:

Ned didn't manage it that session and it was left until Dan got stuck in recently. Despite climbing the two 8a's in under 5 tries each the project took 7 sessions. He broke the first hold a bit and had to spend another session just trying that move again. Anyway he completed it and reckoned 8a+ was fair. This seems more than reasonable judging by the speed he did the 8as! The problem is called Paper Birds. The Gop is in my old mans guide. In my view Push the Button, Smoke a Bloke, Bloesmoker Low and this are good hard problems but the others aren't really worth travelling for so if you're weak i wouldn't bother (hence why i never go).

Paper Birds:

Last week down on the Diamond Ally Smith climbed Boat People into Skip Extension to give an amazing 8a link up.
I went down to Devon this weekend for Unclesomebodys wedding (remember him!). I managed to get down to Ansteys Cove on Sunday despite being sleep deprived. It was dry so i got back on Cider Soak. I fell off this route a few years ago with the top of the crag in my hand. I fell just short of the top this time which was a bit frustrating. It really is a route of two halfs for me. The first half is amazing moves and holds and then you hit these jugs and its awkward, painful, thrutchy climbing to the top. I hate that finish, i'll give it a go in another two years.

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