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Tuesday, 9 October 2012

Bouldering Season!

Since my Pigeons project got wet i haven't been back on a rope. I'm too dismayed so unless by some miracle it dries i'll probably put the rope back in the gimp dungeon til next year. I've been trying a boulder project that i've played on a bit this year. It's coming together and i'm hoping it won't turn into an epic. I was also keen to finish off Pilgrim which i've also tried quite a few times this year. The thing is with the Cave is that it's hard just to dip in and out and make progress. Even with sustained effort i'd get to the flake on RA one day and not even get across the arch a few days later. This kind of thing just makes a siege hard work. Every backwards day acts as a razor to the scrotum. I've wanted to do this link since i first did Rocka 10 years ago. It seems like one of the most obvious ones in there and is so sustained. I used to try the arch so many times, long before it was a popular recognised link. I could never figure out a sequence but it's got easier as people have got better with there heels and you don't even need to heel these days if you don't want as there is a new foothold under RA jug. I finally started to get into RA but this was only half the battle. 9 sustained moves of tough 7c followed but the good thing with this kind of thing is that you do gain the specific fitness and you will improve if you put the time in. The first major crux is hitting the flake from the start, this is definitely a stopping point and if you get it you may well get to the last moves. Most people fall off the end on the RA links, the last move is a bit of a heartbreaker. I got back into Llandudno from work at about 5.30, i was looking forward to chilling out after working a nightshift last night and a afternoon today but i gave myself a kick up the arse (well i squeezed my nuts) and convinced myself to go and give it a redpoint. Owen Scouse was there with his rabbit savaging beast and his meaty lights. I warmed up complaining about not feeling great. I said to Owen that if i ever got past my highpoint and got the heel on at the end i might have a chance - i didn't really believe it. I sat down at the start of Left Wall, climbed across the arch perfectly and embarked on RA. It felt different this time, i was solid, i didn't cut loose and was soon at the tensiony end which marked my highpoint. I got my feet onto the ramp this time and the end wasn't really an issue. I screamed in pure surprise, i couldn't believe it. Where were the sessions dropping that last move? it doesn't normally happen like this! It's my first non Pill Box 8a+ but it's 25 moves so more like a hard F8b+.

A good attempt a few weeks ago:

So cool in the night!:

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