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Sunday, 11 November 2012

First Kneebarred Ascent of Directors Cut

I feel sick typing a blog about Alex Barrows but i have to be unbiased as Orme reporter and despite the fact that he cheated and all the problems are no more than 7c with his trickery here goes... The lanky cunt made short work of the hardcore Cave classic Directors Cut utilizing the kneebars and a swanky kneepad. Directors in its original form has always been in the thick end of 8b. As i previously mentioned the kneebars make the crux moves of Trigger pretty solid so it was always a matter of time before someone tall did Directors with them. To add insult to injury Barrows worked out a no hands rest at the end of Lou Ferrino. All this brings the problem down to soft 8a+ although i'm not sure many will be able to get his Lou Ferrino rest. He got the problem in 2 sessions of redpoints but last weekend did Halfway and Daisy From Concrete. He also did Greenheart with a new sequence, similar to the one Pete Robins uses when he tried Pilgrimage. This involves rolling over to the Trigger Cut starting hold and slapping down and right with another knee. He reckoned this was worth 8a with his rest. To cap his weekend he did Broken Trigger, it seems he's finally found a bouldering outlet for his sport fitness! Nice work!

I had a good sesh at Tremeirchion with the dog. A few weeks ago i had a breakthrough on the sitter to 36 Chambers, i finally got a sequence for the sitter moves and climbed into the stand. Yesterday i was keen for some redpoints but struggled with one move on the stand. It was piss off the ladder but tricky from the deck. We both did 22 Chambers which goes from the same sit start and is mega. This is a tough 7c like 36. Amazing problems and lime. Some footage:

The crux move of 22 Chambers:

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