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Thursday, 6 December 2012

Back to The Training Board

Every winter i tell myself that i'm going to train like a beast and come out in Spring and blitz the sport routes. For several reasons it never quite happens and i always find myself lamenting another missed opportunity. The main reason is that to train properly you have to curtail your outdoor sessions a bit and i find that hard to do. I love climbing on a board but i love climbing outside a lot more. I find it hard to do any training when i get in from the crag and i don't like feeling tired when i'm on the crag. Last winter i pottered about outside (only climbed 7c), did little training and was still ok in spring. I feel like my recent ticks have set me free in a way. I managed 4 years of bouldering ticks in 6 weeks, plus the FA i really wanted so don't feel so guilty about going inside now. Plus i'm definitely out of my purple patch now (probably due to an expanding winter waistline) so don't feel like i can keep crushing in the 8's. Every time i see one of those wads training videos i feel a tinge of guilt. I'm trying to achieve my potential at a sport with minimal proper effort. I know climbing is training but know how much i could benefit from a few pull ups and a deadhang regime. I figure if i can climb F8b/+ and 8a boulders by pottering about outside i could improve with some effort. I'm a lazy twat though so these grandiose plans may come to nothing.
I have been out to Ogwen a few times. I managed to do Pit Traverse, a classy 7c that i've always fancied. I failed on Pit and the Pendulum 7b though, seemed nails. Yesterday i was up at Lily Savage, it was too cold and a bit seepy. I tried a project up there and failed to repeat Paul o Grady (punter!). Hosey B style proj giveaway, right of Lily Savage:

Vid of Alex despatching Paul o Grady:

The best 7b in North Wales fo sho!

Then i played on The Spawn 7c+, i'd never even seen this Katz problem and was suitably impressed. I can't believe it's had so few ascents actually as it's one of the better hard problems if you ask me, very Swiss-esque. The start is super steep and there's plenty of beta options. I'm definitely keen to try this again to see if i can work out a sequence.
Jordan made a flying visit to repeat Tramps which he did with minimal bother. I think it's going to end up as 7c+ which is ironic to me as i've never been so sure about the grade of an FA. On the other hand for once i don't actually care, i'm still relieved that i managed it after all that effort.


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