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Thursday, 9 June 2011

Climbing Gods or Coincedence?

Last year i blogged about how i had some personal stresses and suddenly found myself climbing much better on the Diamond. Climbing really gave me a lift just when i needed it. Well its happened again. Its been a really grim time this week. I've kept getting out and hanging with my pals. One evening i went training with Gorgy on his board. I felt pretty bouncy on the warm ups but was shocked with how the session ended up. A few days previous i had been really struggling in there barely able to do 7a. This sesh i knocked out 5 7a's, 5 7a+'s and a 7b that i've only done once 4 years ago. In the context of my current form it was my best board session ever! I've had a few extremely surprising moments in my climbing life but this was right up there with them. To feel strong was so good, i crushed every hold i grabbed, it felt so simple. I went home worried it would be a one off as has happened before. The next day i headed to Dinbren with Mule and Danny. Mule has a hard project there and i've been filming it. I did a 7b+ there a few days ago but thought i should get on something hard after the board session i'd had. Gwennan seemed the perfect candidate, i had one go last year but couldn't really do the move. It was put up by Rob Mirfin who reckoned it was a font 7c boulder problem with a French 7b+ route on top (8a+ route grade). Judging from the guidebook description i think Rob did the move quite statically. Mule did it last year and he just jumped to the jug which was a bit easier and less powerful. I did the move on the dog quickly and worked the top out. I knew i had a chance to get to the jug, it is only one move really. I managed to sketch through the start on my first RP, leaping when it felt like i wasn't going to make it. I pulled tape off my fingers with my teeth and composed myself for the top. It turned out to be the biggest effort i've probably ever put in on redpoint. I was shouting down for beta i'd forgotten and almost off every move. I slapped a small pocket but only latched it with two fingers right on the edge, i was powering out quickly but in the beast mantra "if you don't let go you can't fall off" i somehow managed to get the next hold. Probably 99 times out of a hundred i would have fallen there but i somehow found some inner reserve. The top is easier and i finished the route and lowered off in shock. Last week i could only climb 7c and now i'd done my quickest ascent of an 8 ever. Its bizarre really. The route is hard 8a with the dyno method, not hard enough for 8a+. I warmed down on the brilliant Dyperspace, a 7c that i should have flashed last year. So once again i shall be sacrificing a new born goat to appease the climbing gods. They always seem to sort me out when the chips are down!
Footage:

My Pals:


6 comments:

Micah Bryan Humphrey said...

I think the gods prefer lamb. Goat is so stringy. Good effort Doyle!

lore said...

wow!!! hoodies and jackets!!! I'm envious!!!
good job really!!!
the ancient Greek gods preferred goat; Christian god prefers lamb.
I obviously prefer virgins.

Dave said...

Dinbren!!!! My old home turf!!! Loved living in Llan and spending evening up there. Awesome effort on Gwennan - i never managed to tick that one - always found the move above the jug hard. You done Rob's "out of body experience"? Thats was fun...

Doylo said...

I've got fond memories of dinbren too.there's some tricky moves above the jug on gwennan.haven't tried out of.body yet but looks good!

Dave said...

Yeah, it's class alright. Burly boulder until you're on the wall above the lip then nice n easy. If you fancied something different i did a little link there before we left. Elite Syncopations past it's crux moving right at the top to take in the crux of the E6 and the little roof at the top of the crag to a good loweroff. still 8a but like you said, if you don't big up your own lines no one else will :o)
Is your mate projecting the Ivy roof? Pwooorrr!!

Doylo said...

Sweet wil check it out. Need to do Elite first though. Its not the ivy roof no its the first bolted line on the left of the crag through a bulge