BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Thursday, 16 June 2011


I cracked another new route yesterday. I bolted this one back in winter, it was out of my league to start with and it got gradually better as i improved. I was looking forward to the day it would go down as i had a soft spot for this route. It is a boulder problem route but the holds are lovely, the kind of holds i'd have on my board. It is a very cool sequence. The crux involves squeezing a undercut pinch above your head and fighting your feet up on smears. I had always struggled with this move. Yesterday i turned up hoping that a bit of extra strength would make the move feel easy but that wasn't the case. Halfway through the session it still wasn't looking good. I managed the move once or twice but the redpoints weren't going well. I kept perservering though and by the skin of my teeth finally made it to the top. A bit of a theme has been developing with the last three routes i've done. All three have been colossal efforts and i should have fallen on the successful redpoint of all three. I have managed to summon up something extra when the chips were down and this is a habit i hope to keep up. The best climbers always fight don't give up until they're in the air. I let Pete Robins have a go months ago before i'd even tried it and he said 7c+ so i'll go with that. Felt flippin hard though!

1 comment:

Dave said...

Well done man, cranking!