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Wednesday, 1 February 2012

Dismay in the Hills

The last few days climbing outside before today were hard going. I struggled on everything i tried and started to feel a bit flat. First up was another spanking on Weirdo 7c on the Little Orme. I finally found a sequence for the stand up moves but then the foothold fell off and that was that. On Saturday me and Dan K headed to Tan-y-Grisiau to meet up with Mr P, Spidey and Dyer and Robins. We messed about on New Noise for a bit checking out the new sequence. I knew there was a new hold but didn't realise that it was such a different sequence. It's 7c+ with the pinch out right apparently. Floppy's undercut method is desperate to be fair and even Dan struggled to get off the ground. It's impressive that Chris managed to lap it for Welsh Connections. Then we went down to Flick of the Wrist 7c which i was hoping i might be able to do now. Pete and Neil had both dropped the top and weirdly they both continued to do so and didn't manage it. The crux is off a wide pinch, this is my weakest grip and i soon realised i was just not strong on the hold and it was game over. Dissapointing but Neil and Pete made me feel a bit better by failing with me. Dan got it in a couple of goes, he like the 2D! On the way back we stopped at Rhiw Goch and tried Nazguls Traverse which is an extremely powerful 7c. Dan pissed it again and it was the usual story for me although i did do it from the crux to the end. As one load of Sheffielders left my flat a few more arrived in the shape of Bob Hickish and Chris Lockyer. We headed straight for the Pass and hiked up to Lizard King. It was bitterly bitterly cold. Luckily there was only a slight breeze, any more would have made it too cold to climb. After warming up on the technical Peter's Crack 6c+ me and Bob went to work on LK. I was keen to try the 7c version which uses the slopey arete to the left to finish. Bob did the moves with a massive span, he makes me feel short that guy!

I couldn't do it and the original method off the pinch seemed more feasible. Must go back when it's a bit warmer. I've also got a couple of projects that i've found in the hills which i'm really keen for but they're a bit beyond me at the moment. One is very steep and requires undercut power. I drove straight to Gorgys and he got me doing some bicep work so hopefully i'll see the benefits soon. After 3 days of failures i needed a boost. Today i headed up to Craftnant with Bob and Chris. I had a great day here before Xmas and today it was just magical up there. The rock was totally prime and it was sunny and crisp. I had been excited to try Special K since hearing of the English raiders raving about it last year. I wanted to save it for Winter so i would have something exciting to try. Myself and Bob worked it out pretty sharpish and he dispatched. After a bit more tweaking i followed suit and sat on top buzzing about what an amazing problem it is and how i love that style. It has amazing holds (especially the flat rail), the line is very cool and the moves are excellent. It wouldn't be out of place in Switzerland. I can't for the life of me comprehend how this problem is two grades harder than Wonderwall though, personally i think it's the other way round. Wonderwall has such smaller holds and harder moves. Special K is my perfect style though, Nodder's most stellar FA i'd say! It is surely one of the most classic single boulders in Wales. Wonderwall Arete 6c+, Wonderwall, Riley's Arete (we warmed up on this, brilliant) 7a, My Own Private Idaho 8b, Cruella 7b/+ and Special K, mega!
Rileys Arete:

Chris ticked Cruella then Hickish pulled out an ascent of his cousins problem Grasswind as the light faded. I find it so much easier to perform well on days like this. You walk up to the crag feeling inspired and it stays with you for the day.
Special K:


Thumb Over said...

nice one on special K chris! What's the problem in your second photo? Looks like cellar door in Brione!

Doylo said...

It's Lizard King in the pass, 7c/+ depending on how you do it. Not really like Cellar Door, not as steep!