BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Tuesday, 24 January 2012

I Hate Sharp Jugs

I fuckin hate sharp jugs, a jug never needs to be sharp. My fingers are in bits after the last few days climbing:

Spurred on by this news report i trekked back up to the George's crack hillside in Ogwen. We went up to Lily Savage area, i was keen to look upon it with fresh eyes. Just underneath LS is Paul O Grady, a stunning arete bizzarely overlooked by locals. It took Ben Farley and Mick Adams to do the Stand up and Sit Start a couple of years ago. It was really gusty and pretty cold. Mr P walked up but coulnd't take the pace and bailed straight away (i hear you feel the cold more in old age). I did the stand which is 6c+, it felt amazing, lovely holds and great body positions. I worked the sitter (7b) and eventually figured out a sequence and dispatched it. It's the best 7b i've done in Wales and has all the ingredients of a classic problem in my eyes. Gorgeous holds, great line and importantly there is nothing nasty about it. When i got home i thought about the best 7b's in Wales and came to the conclusion that it is a fairly weak grade for top draw quality. I would certainly rank Paul O Grady at the top. I then started working Lily Savage. This is regarded as a classic 7b of Wales and certainly has the line and moves to justify it. Unfortunately the first slopey ledge has a razor sharp edge which took chunks off my hands slapping for it and later cut my leg heel hooking on it. This puts a dampner on it for me, i fell off the end and didn't have time for another go.

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