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Friday, 6 January 2012

Here we go again!

And it was going so well! I was really getting into the training groove until the sickness came. 3 weeks later and i'm still not back on it. I've been getting out a bit with the old conflict still ever present. I know i need to get indoors campussing, deadhanging and doing steep bouldering but i just love climbing outside so much i struggle with discipline. It's a simple choice, meander along at the same level on the routes again this year or put some hard work in now and hopefully climb a bit harder come summer. Ramon says to get really strong you need to climb indoors. I'm inclined to agree with him. I know plenty of people who climb amazingly without training but are they really fulfilling their potential? They're happy so it doesn't matter but you need to train to get the best out of yourself in any sport. Imagine if Neil Dyer went over to Spain and spent a winter with the beast coaches over there. It's a scary thought. His training for next year consists of 'not actually going climbing ever'. But you know he'll be awesome again next year! Well i know i need to get to work. I went to Porth Ysgo yesterday with Mr P, baby Dave and big Tim. I forget what an amazing place it is as i tend to go once every few years. It is the best bouldering crag in Wales without doubt and such a pretty place to boot. It is a sign of a good crag when the warm ups are just as good as the harder problems. Dave bagged a few FAs, the crag that keeps on giving. One of my objectives for the day was Truth, a cool little 7b arete that i'd never done:

I got to within millimetres of the ledge quite quickly and then proceeded to go backwards on it to the point of surrender. I let the holds cool down and had one more go and did it much to my relief. We then played around on Anaconda which is a stellar 7c:

Mr P on the slightly flawed Higginson Scar RH 7a:

I had a quick look at Dolly Rocker which is a very cool little arete which goes at 8a or thereabouts. One to go back for if i'm ever going well.
Some development has been going on at a limestone crag x. It's a good addition and i'm quite inspired by a big traverse. Quite miss sideways shuffling it's been a while. 10 out of my 12 hardest problems are shuffles, will be good to get involved again.

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