BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Thursday, 19 January 2012

Ruthin Escarpment

Last winter when we were developing Dyserth etc..Clwyd guru and tallest man in North Wales Lee Proctor was giving Ruthin escarpment a makeover. He sent me some pics of a new buttress where he'd done some short routes and which he reckoned might have some bouldering potential. I popped up in early summer with Spidey and we did some of the routes. We did a immaculate little 7a up there and i failed on the 7b (punt). I was keen for the bouldering but wasn't in bouldering mode so i decided to save it for winter. Owen Mcshane and friends beat me to it and did some cool stuff. I finally made it up recently and it turned out to be really good. I went back the next day with a possee and soon the place was nicely developed. Even local Danny C came out and bagged the problem of the crag which took a stand up line with a highball top out (Another Million). I was keen for the big traverse and managed to bag the first section to an obvious jug. This was dead cool and i called it One in a Million and graded it 7b (turns out my illness had cocked up my gradeometer and 7a+ was right for it). The other week Jamie Skates bagged the last bolted line on the crag (Sting Like a Bee 7c). Lee has also rebolted the two main routes section of the crag and there is a new buttress beyond Butterfly Butress with some 6's. You can find the routes on the UKC database. Topo
Lee on his own problem/route Fritillary Flake Fb6a+, F6c:

Gav on what was to become Another Million 7b:

Mr P on what was to become One in a Million 7a+:

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