BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Tuesday, 30 July 2013

Best Roof Climb in the UK?

Today Pete Robins  completed his latest project and this one is potentially the best yet.  Pete's latest creation is the first (and likely last) breach of the massive flat roof down Pigeon's Cave.  Pete (and everyone else) had always gazed up and wondered about the big unclimbed roof above Cat Amongst the Pigeons/Felaltio Nelson.  It looked amazing but would it be possible? On a miserable February day Pete abbed off the top and started cleaning and bolting the line. 
It looked ridiculous, had he bitten off more than he could chew this time?  He had a few dabbles on it but got stuck into Pump up the Jam which went down after a mini seige.  Pete's attention then turned to his mega roof project, he soon got all the moves and was pulling out some good links.  He was starting the route up Stiff Upper Lip which was higher quality and added more amazing roof climbing.  Just before the crux of Stiff, the route branches off left and follows a rampline all the way to the lip. It was immediately apparent that this route fitted Pete like a glove- whereas in years gone by he was a vert slatemaster these days he is definitely king of the roof.  Lots of heel hooks and heel clamps played to his strengths perfectly and he made fast progress.  Last week he made it to the final moves but fell moving his feet round the lip.  Today the conditions were amazing and he despatched first redpoint.  The route tops out onto a ledge so has a satisfying finish.  It certainly is a unique route, it is a roof for 15 metres or so and the holds and moves are amazing.  Certainly one of the best hard routes in the UK. The route is called Dark Energy and he's given it 8c+, i got the ascent on camera so hopefully when the footage is released it will inspire some beasts to give it a go.

Some video stills: