BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Tuesday, 2 July 2013

Follow Your Heart

Pigeon's is the IN crag of the year.  New projects are appearing every week and plenty of people are getting down to the beach.  Since ticking the S crack Pete has teamed up with Ben Bransby and the pair have been helping the crag dry up with a shovel and bolting.  Pete has two new projects, one will be phenomenal when it goes and the other is pretty amazing too.  Ben got in on the act by bolting a project that we'd all seen the potential for.  It looked like you could get into Follow the Prof (an amazing steep 7c+) by starting up Stiff Upper Lip and traversing right past some slots.  Ben put in a hard shift and bolted it up giving it an independent start in the process.  Today was pretty wet and horrible and hence the conditions were even shitter than normal down there.  First redpoint Ben made it through the crux move but made an error by clipping the next bolt and powering himself out in the process.  Next go he made it into Prof and as he shook out before the mega last move me and Pete thought it was a formality as he had onsighted Prof recently.  He set up for the move and it didn't feel right so back down to the jugs he came.  After more shakes he slapped a crimp below the top but it was wet and the elbows came out.  He had the top of the crag in his hand but it wasn't quite over.  Sure enough he clipped the chain and we all let out a sigh of relief.  He's called it Follow your Heart (Follow Prof link, heart shaped jug on prof) and he reckons 8a+.  It's a good job it wasn't much harder given the horrendous conditions but then again the guys a rockstar so it probably wouldn't have mattered.

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