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Friday 1 May 2009

Project Issues

Frustration is kicking in on Mayfair Wall. The main issue that i'm having is that for some reason two of the moves on this route (both involve stretching to crimps) have been making my hand strain from Spain flare up, so i fall off in agony not good. I've also been getting more redpoint jitters than usual, i think this is because its a new line and i want it so much. Anyway each day i grow more confident, the climbing isn't at my limit but i have to conquer all the other factors in order to climb it. Have found out some more history about the line. Mel Griffiths and Tony Schelmerdine first equipped the line and tried it. Its has been tried by Perry Hawkins and Adam Wrainwright. I'm also a bit unsure about the grade. I'd always believed it to be at least 8a+ because i couldn't really touch it. The recent seige however has led me to think it could just be a hard 8a. Danny tried it years ago and said it was defo harder than Masterclass (8a these days and rarely climbed). Recently Lincoln tried it, he thought it probably wasn't 8a+ but he didn't quite manage the crux and didn't do the upper move (i'm sure he could though). Also bare in mind that he's climbing well, Manchester Dogs in 20 min and more recently he climbed Militia 8a+ in a day. Tommy went up there yesterday, he's been eating up 8as downstairs quicktime and he thought my route was defo harder. So i'll probably stick my neck out and give it 8a+. Its cool, thats the main thing. Gonna have a week off it to try and let my hand recover.
Might be going to Yorskshire this weekend for some sport action. I'm keen to get some projects up there (have got one nemesis already!). Would really like to try Full Tilt, 8b up the middle of the North Buttress=amazing. Sposed to be a hard one though so we'll see. Mule is a very psyched man right now, he climbing well on routes and could be dangerous if he can utilise his font 8b strength high up!

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