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Friday, 8 May 2009

Round 3

I last tried Liquid Ambar on 20th March. I hadn't forgotten about it, it has always been at the back of my mind. However being a long term goal and a bit ambitious for me at the moment i wasn't in a rush to jump back on. I knew what i needed to do. More power and a lot of power endurance. Yesterday i got back on it not knowing what to expect after such a break. I knew my strength was ok though so hopefully i would do as well as last time. I pulled up to the lower crux,it was feeling tricky but i knew i was still feeling cold. When i had worked the undercut to undercut pull with Paul i had worked out a different body position. I knew deep down however that although this way worked there was a lot of messing around with the feet involved, time lost that i couldn't afford. After getting the first small undercut i had to move all the way round and then when i got the next hold there was a hard foot move to get my left foot on the decent hold. This involved too much fuckin around. Jerry didn't do any of this, he simply stepped his foot straight onto the decent foothold and powered through. On previous attempts this had seemed unfeasible. Yesterday it was a goer though. After experimenting with body positions i latched the undercut and with the foot already being up pulling up wasn't too bad. Yes! This was a big breakthrough. I did it again, not too bad! I pulled up to the slap and managed it 3rd go. Matching is one of the hard moves on the route but i pressed on, i wanted to see what the top moves were all about. I hadn't been to the top before. I stick-clipped the lower off and went to work. Things weren't letting off much, it was still hard. The moves and the holds were still amazing, i imagined being up there on redpoint cranking 6c moves after all that. Each move took a bit of learning and working out. Thank god for the 80s DVD! I managed all the top moves eventually, i felt confident that they would get easier as i gained familiarity with them. I sat on the rope and gave the route some thought, it was definetely one of the best routes i'd ever tried. Amazing holds, style, moves and a incredible power endurance epic. I thought of all the strong bastards who spend so much time in the shithole cave when there is such a world class route ten minutes away. Ok its a bit epic with the tides and conditions but these are minor obstacles to overcome to climb such a great route. I thought of how many fitter, stronger and better climbers than me lived on this island and i was shocked that so few had even tried this route. 3 ascents in twenty years! I also wondered how things were going to progress for me on this route. I was taking a step into the unknown. I had skipped a grade when i climbed Melancholie but this was different. I had done a lot of 8as when i did Melancholie but this was probably as far as my potential goes. I don't know whether i'm looking at 6 months or 5 years on this route. I just can't predict how things are going to progress. I am definetely positive though after my initial forays. I think the route is within my abilities and to be honest trying it is no hardship, its so much fun!
Effort to The Inspector for nailing an old bugbear, Power Ranger 8b+ at Malham.

1 comment:

Jasper said...

Get stuck in and crush the fucker.