BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Saturday, 24 October 2009

NO Overnight Sensation! (Doth Nemesis Slain)

Most climbers have a nemesis, a particular climb that they just can't crack no matter what. Mine has always been Overnight Sensation 8a+ at Malham Cove. I don't recall when i first tried this route but it was a while ago thats for sure. Having dropped the last move half a dozen times i'd begun to lose hope. The start is a fingery long and hard font 7b sequence but then you have to finish up a French 7c headwall. There were times where i was strong enough to piss the start but lacked the fitness to finish it and vice versa. A bit of luck and i probably would have done it years ago. The problem with it was that efforts were never continous because i've always lived a few hours from Malham. I'd do well on a particular day but wouldn't go back for weeks, this kind of disjointed effort was not the way to get stuff done. With the tides being in this week i quite fancied climbing a bit more on rock and Malham seemed a good choice so i teamed up with Ted and we headed north. Even if it was just for training purposes it would be worth it but in the back of my mind i hoped i would be in good enough shape to crush something. Afetr warming up i got on Overnight, i was still familiar with it and i got through the start by the skin of my teeth first redpoint. It had taken to much out of me though. On my last go i found myself at the big long move at the end and for the first time in the history of my Malham career i latched the move. I was however knacked and couldn't close it up. Joy and despair in equal measure. I was however confident for the next day. After a few duff redpoints i got the big last move again but this time i closed it out and boy did it feel good. I was very pleased, not just because i'd ticked my nemesis but also because i knew my power endurance had improved. Ted ticked Vogue 7c+ and some other 7c on the left and we left happy chappies!

1 comment:

ianto said...

good effort,i rebolted my old project today,with limited time spare it will take me time but i will do it, if anyones reading please leave it it's my motivation to climb again.
(left of 'citw')