Diamond time is upon us again. Went down earlyish with Dave Redpath yesterday but was pleasantly surprised to find it dry. First go fell off crux, ended up meddling with it some more and finally i think i know how to do the crux. Next go got through the crux but was powered out again, couldn't even clip - lob! I was starting to get disillusioned. Had got here maybe 4 times now and every time i hadn't been able to move. Maybe i had bitten off more than i could chew. Next go once i got the flatty i dropped my feet down a bit lower and i could hang on with a straight arm, instantly it felt better. I clipped fine and then made the next move out left, i fell off going for the half decent shakeout. Progress and finally i started to believe i could get high on this route. We didn't get long as the sea raced in.
Today was shit, there didn't appear to be much difference in the conditions but the route was basically to greasy to climb on. Very frustrating. Spent most of the day just watching the boys on Never get Out of the Boat and had a quick go of Tommy's proj, super bouldery! Hope for better nick next time.
Jim on the newly bolted Rub a Dub Dub 7a:
2 comments:
Unlucky Chris, keep grinding it down until the good conditions come! We were baking at LPT, needed a breeze.
yeah a breeze would have been good. Need patience for this climb, ahhhh!
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