BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Tuesday, 29 December 2009

Craftnant

Back in the day myself and the Cattells did a few cool problems in the Craftnant valley. Yesterday i went back with Floppy to check the place out again. First we tried Danny's unrepeated 7c Grasswind, really cool feature:

We made slow progress, i reckon Chris could do it next sesh though. Then we moved over to my problem Wonderwall, i was keen to try a right hand finish to it but wasn't too optimistic as i find this problem nails even though i originally gave it V7. Anyway i managed to pull one of the finger jugs off it. Chris did the new crux but didn't link it, its probably 7c now. CJD also dropped his shoe down a chasm so had to walk back to the car with his climbing shoe on, schoolboy error!

9 comments:

Rob said...

Hey mate,

which hold broke? Is it really 7c now or were you joking?

great problem.

cheers,

R

Doylo said...

The finger jug just after the small crimp. To be honest i think Wonderwall was severly undergraded. I couldn't even repeat it when i got back from Hueco (had strong fingers then!). I think it was 7b+ and now its a bit harder.

Betaguides said...

Great place, done a nice circuit there up to Font 7a,
those problems look superb!

Rob said...

Wonderwall is one of the best problems I've done in NW (as far as aesthetics, difficulty and location go).

Had to siege it as couldn't top out initially, then got rained off, then got a flapper! Finally decided to drive home to NW from uni at 5am in order to send it. Still one of my fav climbing memories.

http://tinyurl.com/ycwve48

Not that the grade matters but calling it 7b+ probably makes it the hardest thing I've climbed. Would love to go back and repeat it now its a little harder.

R

PS. Where's that vid you did called "A day out in crafnant" or something- couldn't find it on your youtube site...

Doylo said...

http://www.beardownproductions.co.uk/video.html

Good stuff mate, give yourself a 7b+, its hard!

Excel said...

Nice Video, Impressive cranking
Has anybody done the highball smooth Arete, at the bottom left of the field?

Betaguides said...

Sorry logged in under Excel, on the last comment, i have mapped the field, could send you the map if you want?

lee@betaguides.com

Doylo said...

if its the arete i'm thinking of then yeh it has been done, quite scary!

Rob said...

Nice one- good to see the vid again.

When I first visited the problem, I was with my brother who was climbing like a beast at the time and flashed it! Bastard...