BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Thursday, 8 April 2010

1st Sesh on the Proj

Went down LPT yesterday to try a world class piece of rock that no man had ever attempted before. I was excited and very hopeful that the resin had set properly! It was great to finally try the sequences that i had envisaged from the ab rope. I spent a while on the obvious crux which is on the first bit of steepness. There are holds but i couldn't come up with a decent sequence. I'm sure there's a way but it is defo hard. Above things went a bit better, it climbed much differently than i had thought. One really obvious pinch for the right i ended up taking with my left. It was coming together fast, some quite long moves on it. Anyway i did most of the moves up to the lip where two small crimps must be utilised (didn't want to risk splitting my tip with upcoming holiday). Turns out you rock leftwards into the LA belay, but thats not it as above is a really nice slabby English 6a headwall which takes you to the top of the crag. Climbing direct into this headwall without rocking left would be artificial and a lot harder too, kind of Big Bang-esque. It felt natural the way i did it. So to sum it up roughly its about 7b to the crux which is probably font 7c or 7c+ (certainly harder than anything on Liquid Ambar). To the top from there is probably 8b or 8b+. So if i put those figures into the gradeometer it comes out as 8c+, maybe?????? So good though and not one that i'll be interested in giving away, was hard work bolting it! Went up to the Cave after, haven't felt too springy and fresh since that day i got to the shot. Did Trigger Cut, decided it didn't go down easy enough and left (soon will be back though).


dave said...

Well stop fucking bolting t hem all then,

Jasper said...

Nalle's on his way. Get the lip balm out! :P

Doylo said...

Dave can't help but bolting them , so good. Just had a threesome with Nalle and Sharma! Gettin spanked at the mo, miss the orme