BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Tuesday, 14 September 2010


Adversity is what i'm facing with regard to this Diamond route. It has dawned on me this week that is probably one of the worst places for climbing at your limit. Ok so Sharma managed to do Jumbo Love half way up a mountain in the desert but he is Sharma, its his job to do shit like that. The Diamond is only 20 minutes from civilisation but this is all it has going for it for multi session seiges. I think its a fabulous crag for going and doing some routes in a session or two. It is one of the most impressive bits of sport rock in Britain without doubt. By the time i get back on the route i will basically have had 11 days off. I have been away a few times and the weather has been shit here. Now my names not Cattell or Dyer, those boys can warm up on Trigger Cut after 5 months off. 11 days is significant for me! So the place is tidal (obvious disadvantge), you can only climb there 2 months a year, any kind of atmospheric ming and its unclimbable, it can't be raining and you need partners on the good days. Its getting dark at 7.30 now and you can't go before 12 cos of morning grease. You will never do a route at your limit there if you have a job. I have been putting off working to try and do it. This doesn't make you rich and is a bad way to be. I'll see what happens in the next tidal window but with all these problems and my continued psyche dip its not looking good!


Micah Bryan Humphrey said...


nige and fay said...

yeah i still find it cool when i think of what i've seen the Dyer warm up on after injury and 50 years off climbing, lol. pretty amazing.

Doylo said...

Bout time he did something hard other than Silk Cut! Too strong!