BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Sunday, 24 April 2011

Ormesmen of the Week- Gary Gibson, new route fanatic

During the new route boom on Pen Trwyn during the 1980s it was inevitable that the country's leading new routers would be attracted to the area. Gary Gibson must be the most prolific new router in Britain ever with thousands of new routes to his name and he wasted no time in leaving his mark on the Orme. Although he sometimes courted controversy his contribution to new routing is undeniable. Gary's first new route was The Violater, a now banned E3 up the left side of Mayfair wall. Gary then turned his attention to Black Wall and completed most of the lines there. These routes were properly bolted in the 90s which caused one young man to write in to the mags: "take care lads because the time for agreement is over. As far as i am concerned your licence to bolt has been revoked!" 1984 saw perhaps Gibsons most classic Pen Trwyn addition. Homesapien 7a+ is a great thin technical testpiece. Gary left his mark on many of the sectors on Pee Trwyn establishing three easier classics down LPT which were destined to be popular. Other significant ascents included Plagued by Fools, Capturing the Coelacanth, Barking up the Wrong Tree and Two Ton Cainman.

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