Praise the Beastmaker

I had 3 fingerboard sessions last week in work and felt much better at the weekend. No more arms turning to jelly after 5 minutes. Saturday i went out with Danny C. Danny has hardly climbed for a few years now which pains me as i used to love watching him beasting it. Its not that he's completely lost interest in climbing. Its more the case that he's so flippin laid back he just doesn't get around to it and get organised. Anyway he was 30 minutes late at our old pick up point and wasn't answering his landline or mobile so i drove to Denbigh, crept up to his room and poured a cup of water over his face as he slept. That taught the little shit a lesson. I took him to one of my crags and i got on my last bolted line there. A nice line with flowing moves through a hanging corner system and a very cool headwall. Danny puked into the river as i set off on redpoint. I didn't do it but was close. Danny tried my diagonal groove 7b but failed after spending 5 minutes trying to jam his arm in a crack. Was very entertaining to watch. Sunday i went to the mill despite the beautiful weather, beautiful weather doesn't make you strong! Was expecting the worst after hardly being able to pull on last time i went but was pleasantly surprised to do 3 7as first go. 7a isn't hard but it does require pulling with your fingers and arms. I was happy as i'm 12 stone and haven't been training much. Need to keep going back now, such a good facility. Finished off my project from Saturday, yesterday. Its called Strawberries Man after a 5b chubby fella who once told me he'd toproped Strawberries. I didn't believe him. The grade is 7c, vid here: (usual boring tripod scene)

It was quite hard to concentrate as there were loads of kids screaming and shouting in the river. Kids only seem to be able to speak with the volume on max. I forgave them when one said i was cooler than the climber he'd seen yesterday. Was good to know. Almost finished bolting the last two lines here which is very exciting as i think they'll both go. One is a big roof with a hole in the middle of it leading to a hard lip encounter and the other is the line of the crag. A traverse across a steep break, funky roof exit, hard lip then nice headwall. Can't wait to try them properly. Read an interesting article by Malc in a old mag about dieting. He says crash dieting can be counter productive and that its better to reduce your weekly calories gradually in order to make weight loss sustainable. Shocking the body isn't necessarily a good thing as it is likely to go into defence mode and you could lose equal amounts of muscle as well as fat.
One of the first appearances in a mag for the Ormes: