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Sunday, 10 April 2011

Watch out Ondra

If you haven't seen it already this video of Ondra onsighting Mind Control at Oliana is a must watch. Aswell as being well filmed and put together this vid shows the incredible level that Ondra is performing at. Since the early 90s there hasn't really been a clear 'best climber in the world'. We've had many hard routes put up but no one really breaking away from the pack. At this moment Ondra is breaking away from the current crop with every climbing day. I always thought that if onsighting got up to 8c/+ level then the climbers would need a large element of luck, perfect conditions and also would have to slap there way vigoruously up a route looking like they could fall on any move. With Ondra on this route we see him hanging out and shuffling on holds and taking time to make decisions. You really have no feel for how hard the moves that he is doing are. It really is remarkable. The fact that the route is flippin wet also makes it even more impressive and indicates that this isn't actually his limit. Truly historic footage!

BD athlete Adam Ondra onsights Mind Control (8c+), Oliana, Spain from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

In sharp contrast my arms felt tired warming up on a 3 bolt 6b yesterday! I went to check out some new stuff Lee Proctor has been doing in the Clwyd. He's done some good stuff. Me and spidey did a short 7a+ that was immaculate and contained probably the best move i've done on a route of this grade, a big dynamic slap where your hand travels miles. Very morpho! Then we went to a little craglet Spidey has developed. He has done 2 6's there and last year Danny C did a 7b/+. Spidey has a project there which he has been trying and falling off the last move for 2 years. I had a quick go, its a very Frankenjuraesque route with a crux involving a pocket and a heel hook.

I think he'll do it soon. Come on Spidey!
Lee repeated Danny's route thinking 7b:

I'm going to eat loads of salad this week and hopefully get on the fingerboard. The trouble is pascal doesn't finish training til 8.30 and i really can't be arsed by then. Everytime i go climbing its as so my arms don't know what i'm doing to them. They should, i've been at it 15 years!

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