BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Thursday, 1 March 2012

New Cave Links

A couple of hard new links have been done in Parisellas. Dave 'king of kneebars' Noden has got to grips with the knees on Trigger Cut and armed with a Five Ten kneepad has been climbing into it from all over the place. Broken Heart into TC is a link that i put some time into. On one mutant go i got into the shothole but was powered out to the max. It's not a king line but the climbing is quality. Nodder reckoned soft 8a+ for him. Ben Bransby has climbed Bonnatrocity (Rockatrocity into Bonnie). Liam Desroy managed RA into Clyde a few years ago so this is another obvious stepping stone to cave completeness. The grade is 8b, nice one Ben.
I've just returned from a bit of a road trip to far flung corners on this fair isle (well not quite!). The Mule turned 30 so i went to his party in Sheffield. It was a good, someone got set on fire. Standard really. I went to check out Mick Adam's limestone venue Anston Stones near the M1. I went with Pascal and Neil J Inspector Mawson. The boys gave me the tour, i was impressed. Good limestone with some very nice looking problems. I did a 7b called Alpha and started trying Black Crow, a 7c+ that i had been immediately drawn too. I got it in two and started redpointing. I could of done it a couple of goes but wasn't clinical enough on the crux. I hate that, there's no reason in the world why you can't grab the hold apart from your own mental resilience. A fat Ondra would have crushed it no problem! One hold became too painful and that was that. I messed about on some other stuff and watched everyone lapping Dark Art (8a).
Dark Art 8a

Resonate 7c

Black Crow

The next day despite minimal sleep i headed to Stanage (shock horror!). I lived in Sheffield for 4 years but never really got to grips with the grit. The pebbles/ smear scene ain't my scene! The one thing i've always wanted to do though is Brad Pit. This is surely the most iconic boulder problem in the UK. When i started climbing i used to watch Hard Grit quite a bit and remember reading about it in OTE. When i lived in Sheff it was still a bit of a hallowed tick and consequently i didn't put any effort into it. However the aura has been broken slightly as it gets done all the time now and is regarded as 7c. No reason not to get involved then. I headed to Brass Monkeys first but felt a bit timid on my own so went to the Pit. It literally took me 20 minutes to get my heel on (note to self, felxibility is now awful). I did the first move a few times but my heel kept ripping. I need to try it with another shoe i think. Rich Sharpe and Micky P came to help me. I haven't really seen Micky since we were holed up in a Swiss chalet in 2008. It's been great hearing about him going from strength to strength and flying the flag abroad. I packed it in and set off home, i checked to see if anyone was trying Brass Monkeys and sure enough there were some hombres giving it a whirl. On previous attempts i could never hold the swing with the crimp but that damn useful thing the internet had revealed another method and it was fine like this, 7b+ max. After a rest i headed up to Newcastle to see family. I had a spare few hours and wanted to try The Yorkshireman so headed to Kyloe In. On picking up 2 strapped together pads i pulled something in my arm. Hmm not a good sign. Anyway it was the hottest day of the year and the wood has condensed. I went to Bowden climbed about a bit, got stuck into V Crimps but couldn't hold the cut loose from the start. Lovely day and great crag, take a guide next time. I popped into the Bowderstone on the way home but felt beat before i'd even pulled on. I did Slapstick and Picnic and messed about on some harder stuff and that was that. I'd love to come here when i'm going well some day.
I feel pretty beat up now mentally and physically, i'm going to take more rest. Bouldering season has been really fun and i've done some really nice problems. I have been getting a bit frustrated of late as its dawned on me that i can't hit top form at 12 stone. I know theres a beast in there, it's just he's concealed under 12 pounds of sweaty blubber. I need to stick to the plan though and save the weight loss for routes season. It'll all be worth it!

No comments: