BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Friday, 30 March 2012


I went to Pantymywn after work on Tuesday night and was surprised to see the Under the Bridge wall in great condition. A couple of dry winters coupled with the cleaning efforts of Lee P, Jamie and John have sorted it out. Everyone must have looked at the bouldering potential of this wall but it's always been so greasy and moist it's never really taken off (barring Under the Bridge, Danny's excellent 7b+). Also the fence has been completely dismantled and there are now a couple of problems that were previously obscured by it. There is quite a bit to do on there with sit starts, link ups and not to mention some great up lines. Lee Proctor has done a new mini route called La Porte de l'Enfer. He did a right hand boulder problem to get to the first bolts but a more direct, quicker and easier start has since been found which shifts the grade from 7c to 7b+. I had a valiant flash attempt but Lee's sequence on the headwall was meant for 6ft 6 peeps and i didn't have the necessary beans to work out a different way. I sussed the moves and got it next go. It is a very fun little route with excellent moves throughout. I also did a potential new problem on the right hand side of the wall. It featured a crimpy start to a big move to a juggy horn. I latched jump after several goes and almost the obvious sit start from the left. The problem is about 7a and maybe a + or just hard for the grade from the sitter. If someone wants a potential 8a FA then the right to left traverse of the wall into Under the Bridge would be very spicey. It was packed round the corner at the main bouldering cave with Team Wrexham having it large. There has been a fire under the left hand side and Panty's down has got a bit harder. Also the block used for the sitters in the hole is wobbling a bit.

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