BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Thursday, 5 April 2012

Orme Love

It was 22 degrees a week or two ago, today it was 4 degrees. What a topsy turvy country we live in! I've been spending a lot of time down the Orme (mainly in the Cave) and it's been great. Obviously i quite like the Orme so going there a lot is no hardship. I've had 2 more sessions on Walking Mussel. I've been up it about 6 times now and i'm dead chuffed with my progress. I find the two crux moves ok, going into the undercut and matching it but i've yet to do them from the awkward moves below. I think those two moves really fit me and i've got perfect feet positions sorted. I went down with Adam Jeeworth today, it was too cold really. Jee had a good onsight burn of Over The Moon Direct but was thwrawted by cold fingers. He found it too cold to redpoint it too but he's keen for a return when he gets back from his big holiday to Europe. Walking Mussel revolves around a crimpy pinch. There is a lot of stress on my index finger and today it felt pretty threatening. I wasn't sure how i was going to find the first bulge but it was fine, about font 7a/+. The climbing is easy up to the middle bulge so i could get to the crux move from the ground now. I just need a few percent more on the pinch. Some 3 finger deadhanging needed methinks! I've been loving the Cave this last few weeks too. I've been trying Nodder's new link Broken Trigger and have got to the shothole twice only to power out. The only thing stopping me from getting there most goes is the 2nd kneebar to get the undercut. Most goes i don't place it right and can't do the move so it's quite frustrating! I'm off to Sheff now to catch up with my old mucker Irish Si and do some climbing. I'm pretty to keen to do a bit more grit after watching Life on Hold, a great new bouldering film with some impressive ascents and insight into the new wave of highballing thats been going on in recent times. Good work chaps!

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