BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Monday, 16 April 2012

Walking Muss, Day 4

Yesterday conditions were prime downstairs. The crag was packed with sport chuffers, it felt like the first proper weekend of the season. Fatty bum bum, man of the moment Alex Barrows had come over to try Walking Mussel and was on it again as we got down there. It was good to try it with someone else but it got quite tiresome having to constantly remind him that he was in Wales not Spain every time he complained about the moves being hard. It was worth him coming though as he told me to put 4 fingers on the crux hold instead of 3. The rock was so mint, i felt the best yet on the moves despite a poor warm up in the Cave. Second go up i just climbed from the floor and got to my crux which felt good. It was crunch time, however if i wanted to do this route i couldn't hide anymore, i had to try THE CRACK!!! So i pulled up the clipstick and tape and got involved. I had a vague sequence from last year but it felt too hard, eventually i worked out you have to stand on the smears instead of the jug and it started to come together. I very much doubt any of the previous ascentionists (Moon, Carson, Robins, Caff, Bransby, Dyer) fell off the crack but for me it is pretty much guaranteed. I'm going to need a fair few beans left to top out and it's only April and i've only done 7 routes! Serious stamina training needed! On the positive side the crack will only get easier the more you do it and at least it's the kind of thing you can fight on. Boy will i be fighting.
W Muss:

Keith topping out on Battle of the Parasites 7c+:

I was in Vegas today so i popped up to Waterfall for a look. I spent so many days there last year it was nice to be back. I wish someone would go and try the hard one! I want an opinion. Part of the cracked break on Meatsville Arizona has parted company with the crag but i think think it makes much difference

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