BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Sunday, 29 April 2012


I've just got in from the Cave. It was freezing, wet and windy like a true winter day and i couldn't get going at all. Caff was keen to hit LPT this morning and said he'd be in the Cave at 8.30 but when the forecast is that bad i struggle to be as optimistic as Caff. With talk of misplaced jet streams and cold predictions for May it doesn't feel like sport season despite everyone's efforts to get out there. I've had a couple more sessions on Walking Mussel but the temps really aren't helping with it being a bouldery route. For me it's imperative to have warm fingers on the crux pinch but obviously when you're climbing with someone else and they need a decent go on their route it's very easy to cool down. I need to go at least every 20 minutes so i either need to employ my own personal belayer or climb with someone else who is also redpointing. When it hits 10 degrees i usually abandon sport climbing for the year but because it's April i'm trying to get on with it. The first session was quite good and i really should have done the crux on the last go. Last Friday i went to Malham with Pete and Owen. They were keen for Obsession and i thought i'd try and tick it too but i felt awful warming up. I sketched up Rose Coronary, a very shortlived 7a and then we headed up to the upper tier. There was a bit of a queue for Obsession so i got on Toadall Recall, a route i had tried a few times over the years. It's better to fail on a 8a than a 7b+ i figured! Despite it being soft 8a i'd always struggled so i was surprised to fall just after the crux first redpoint. I knew i only had one more go. I find those routes so hard on the skin, they don't cut they bruise and it's soon too painful. Anyway i got through all the hard climbing next go but completely powered out and had to hang there and hope i'd get something back. I did and clawed my way to the top, a real fight but nice to get something done. Pete ticked Obsession which was his objective and another 7b+ for his pyramid. The tides are good but i'm working so won't be able to get down, balls!

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