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Friday, 13 April 2012

Back to the Dull

I've got 2 new routes lined up for this year. I bolted both of them last year but didn't get chance to put much effort into them. One of them is a link up in the Main Cave at Llanddulas. I love going up to Dulas, there are no tidal or access considerations, it's a nice spot and it feels like a second home away from the Orme. I've seiged a new route in the main cave for the past two years and both routes were really fulfilling. The climbing is really funky and 3D, there's not much like it in North Wales. Last year i was up there with Ben Heason and he spotted the potential for linking up the two roof routes via an unclimbed horizontal section which looked like it might just have enough holds. One of the last things i did on a rope was to stick four bolts in the new section. I had a quick play with Pete R one day and was keen to return with fresh endeavour come the new year. I've been doing quite a bit in Parisellas recently and as i was feeling quite good in there i thought it was a good time to get back on the Dulas proj and try and work out the new section. I went up with Mules yesterday and clipsticked straight up to the start of the new climbing. I'd already done the first hard move last year but this time it felt pretty tough. I just about managed it and let Mule have a go, he thought it was pretty hard too. A bit disgruntled that the move didn't feel easier i pushed on hoping to crack the next moves. In the middle of the roof is a lovely slopey pod, getting it was the move that i'd struggled on but moving off it felt equally tricky, and then so did the next section. I had to remind myself that the first sessions on Temple and the Last Crusade were equally fruitless but then i just don't think there is as much potential for easier beta on this section of the roof. It's not just that the middle section is so tricky. You have to do 9 steep moves on the Last Crusade to get into it and when you reach Temple you have the redpoint crux of that to contend with. It's a meaty, inspiring piece of climbing. My best case scenario was that it would weigh in at soft 8b+ and i could complete it in time for the guide. After trying it again it feels significantly more meaty than any 8b+ i've been on. I tried Darwin Dixit in Margalef a few years ago, this is 8b+ (used to be 8c) and is also a roof. On this route every hold is a jug, they're just spaced apart. I think the Dulas thing might be 8c, i'm definitely not giving it away though, it's pretty inspiring and i live for inspiration.
Me and Mule finished off with some mileage. We're both so unfit, oh to be a stam jock. Mule was going to go up Tony Stud but noticed that someone has nicked the hanger off the one expansion bolt on the route. It really does make me despair how rock climbers would steal shitty little bits of metal off a rock climb. It's also been happening in Dyserth and Penmaenhead. If i ever see someone nicking insitu protection i'm going to steal there address from their wallet, go to their house and drive a iron stake up their wifes arse. Cunts!

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