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Monday, 27 August 2012

Back on It

I've been trying to get back into the climbing groove this week. The body is starting to wake up, today i headed down the Diamond with Tommy and Pascal. It's been frustrating hearing about people lapping it up down there. Everyones been trying Skip of Fools and Pete Robins has been checking out proj's. Goddamit the place has so much potential. I'd love everything to be done for the next guide so i can look at the page full of meat with high 8's. Hopefully a few will get completed. Pete text me today that he feels "like Edlinger at Ceuse in the 80s". It's a great quote and there are lines here that wouldn't be out of place at such a crag. Today was shitty weather but the rock was just about ok. The rain was blowing in after a bit but we were on the crag so couldn't complain too much. We all climbed on Skip, Tommy has been trying it a bit and dispensed the beta. It felt like a different route this time and i really enjoyed working it out with a bit more knowledge. It's fuckin brilliant climbing, ace sidepulls, pinches and guppys. Pascal got it sorted and despatched and me and Tommy did some linkage. The Robins extension incorporates one more hard move after the original belay but i think it's the only way to go now. It would leave a hollow feeling stopping at that nowhere belay now knowing that one more move leads to easy ground at the same grade. Having said that the last move will be a heartbreaker i'm sure! Despite sport climbing all year i haven't done much endurance climbing so its feels like a nice change. The Brute defo feels like a bit more than a grade harder to me though.
Pascal on The Brute last time:

I feel so much better after getting out. I literally depend on the climbing buzz to live a happy life these days. Everything just feels so much better after being out on the crag. I like my missus more, i like my tea more, i like my bed more. I love getting in starving and feeling worked and then chilling out and planning the next hit. I'm a addict- fuck i better not get injured.

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