Imminent Departees

Pete Harrison has climbed a new E7 at Craig y Forwyn. I went to along to take some pics, it looks a great piece of rock. Pete took the lob while i was there but got it next go.

It's been nice not to have to stress about LPT and seiging that route. As is always the case though in climbing your mind soon starts top think about the next challenge. Once the joy has faded you're left with a lasting satisfaction but also a desire for that feeling of clipping the lower off of a hard route. The good thing is i can chill out now and enjoy myself. I've got a couple of FA's i'd love to do. The Pigeons route depends on a long term shift in the weather though. If things carry on like they have been it probably won't happen. I went to Dyserth Waterfall with Spidey and the Cattells yesterday. Mule's on the comeback trail again. He's always blighted by injury but is so strong he's soon back on it. He tried The Hole Truth and blitzed the start but struggled with reach at the lip. There's not many options for feet if you're short. It seems that the start which i struggled on so much is actually ok if you're strong, ah to be a beast! I tried Pete's link Meaty Madness which links Meatsville Arizona into Madness Reigns. I didn't bother with this last year as it would have been the same grade as Madness and i was sick of going there. Losing the break on Meatsville means it's definitely harder and pretty damn awesome! The first roof is hard now. It's brilliant physical climbing and i'm well keen to try it again when i feel a bit fresher. Damn that crag's good!