BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Thursday, 16 August 2012

Rodney God Reclimbed

Pete Robins has reclimbed Rodney God and the Oral Twins at the Cutaway after the loss of a crucial hold. The route was a soft 8a that had a glued on square crimp. I think it was John Maskell who pulled it off and the route has been in limbo ever since. Pete worked out an intense new sequence at the top and bagged it in a couple of sessions at 8b.
Pete also did a new DWS on The Little Orme:
"Then we went questing around the little orme in Tommys boat with Neil too. Well good fun, 'E' looks amazing! We spied a great little routeat the right end of the ledge, to the left of the finish of Heel HookLook (which was wet). It goes up the wall to an overlap and jugs abovethen over a bulge past a pocket and 'fang' hold near the top. Wemoored up on the ledge and Neil committed first, went wrong way andfell in! I didn't want to fall in. I found an easier way at start thenheld it together for the exciting finish. Its perfect quality (2stars), above deep water at high tide, not too high, and around 7a+ or 7b. Felt 7b to me but i was scared! def not climbing at Diablo on myown in sept! Call it 'Ledgend'."

I ventured down The Diamond with Pete Harrison, Pascal, Smitton and Gus. It was fantastic to be back at the most inspiring sport crag in North Wales. It felt tropical, a warm wind was hitting the crag and the rock was really dry (if a little warm). We stayed down at high tide, it wasn't a high one and everything from the Brute leftwards was fine. Me and Pete got on Skip of Fools, the George Smith 8a+ left of Boat People. It was inspiring watching Jimmy Big Guns screaming his way up it last year. It looked brilliant! First go up i was a bit baffled. There are so many potential holds and on this bit of wall i was struggling to find the best ones. The first 3 bolts contain the hardest moves, this bit is really fingery. Then you get to perhaps the only shakeout on the route (and its not a great one) before a sustained romp to the belay. The majority of the holds are pinches (and often quite slopey ones). It really took a bit to get my head round it. Pete sussed some cool beta and sequences on the top and i got a sequence on the start. It's the kind of route that should feel easier every go up as you get it more dialled but jesus it will be a beast to link it all. It's one of the purest power endurance routes i've been on, it hardly lets up at all. Brilliant moves all the way. It's a great contrast to Walking Mussel and i'm psyched to get fitter. Pascal and Smit warmed up on Boat People then Pascal got on The Brute and Smit got on Never Get Out of The Boat. Ry was obviously inspired by The Brute and he was really impressive on it considering he's not been psyched recently. He got to the high redpoint crux 2nd redpoint and will have a good chance of nailing it next time. Smit did NGOOTB and Gus was psyched to be there in good conditions for once and nailed Boat People. This crag is so fucking awesome, its crazy that its banned for the period of year when it's most mint. The main bit of crag has no birds, there is a nest up by Rub a Dub Dub and the rest are up and right of The Brute. Surely we can have partial restrictions on this cliff like they do at so many. It's criminal that it's so out of reach

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