BBC - Weather Centre - Forecast for Llandudno, United Kingdom

Friday, 25 September 2009

Diamond Training

Its been full steam ahead on the training front at Doylo headquarters, never have i felt so determined to get into better shape. I have been deadhanging on my greasy bit of wood and training power and fitness at the Mill. Considering how things have been going on the route i was surprised how weak i was at the Mill. I knew i had no fitness so presumed things must have been happening on strength alone. No i could barely do 7a. Usually i would be disheartened at this scenario but not now, as with my fitness the fact that i'm starting from a fairly low point means that it should be easier to make gains. For example i should be able to improve my fitness a lot quicker than a man who is already fairly fit. For this route i need a bit more finger strength to get solid on the crux and i need power endurance with a bit of shake out recovery thrown in for good measure. So in the Mill i have been doing a bit of this on the steep board:

This gets me really powered out and makes you fight when you feel like you can hold on no longer. This will be important for the top of the project when 100 percent effort and commitment will be required when boxed. On the 30 board i have been trying to do circuits up and down the board with a fairly poor shake out position in between goes, this boxes me too! The angle is also similar to the middle/top of my proj. I haven't done any specific fitness training for years so hopefully i'll see improvements. I have also been running twice this week for 50 minutes each time, my legs are knacked cos haven't run since Aber. Tonight i ran past the Little Orme in the dark, it was a nice reminder of why i'm putting myself through this pain. Also i have been watching what i eat again. Using this Calorie counter i have worked out that i'm consuming just over 1000 calories a day. I'm not hungry though so could probably push it further a la Stevie Haston (700 Calories a day=9a!!!). So thats it, i intend to keep this regime up as long as it takes, hopefully it will work!
The old king with Detritus and the meaty Little Orme behind him:

1 comment:

ianto said...

good effort chris you've inspired me to reach my climbing goals before it's to late ,after 10 years of existing without pushing myself to climb what i know i can pete(so happy local lad done LA f'in effort,well done pete)and jerry's book,came 10 years to late for me to push and the orme locals are admiring your efforts keep it up.ianto